[TR] guye peak - North Ridge Route 4/12/2014

[Ramkathi]

Trip: guye peak - North Ridge Route

 

Date: 4/12/2014

 

Trip Report:

 

We attempted and submitted the North,Middle & South summits of Guye Peak.

 

Route Beta:

The snow was firm, we didn't use snowshoes.

 

 

We rappelled off the cliff since the easier gulley section was setup with a rope by another group.

 

We used all Rock Anchors in the lower section, used a #2 camlot, #3 nut and couple of backup nut protections. We didn't trust the snow since the cornice above us was threatening and couldn't fall anytime, infact it did fall at end of the day a small portion and created some point release.

 

Doing dead man over this slope is sloppy and recommend to back it up with rock anchors if you could, since the snow could give up, either on cornice break or point/release / wet avy concerns.

 

 

you could see the view of north summit and middle summit in these pictures.

 

It is a pretty forward easy climb.

 

It could be totally done without protecting. adding insurance for snow conditions and cornice falls, depend on ropes.

 

There is an awesome tree in the way to middle summit, it is a small tree but served the purpose for rappel on the way back

 

the trail from the middle to south is very straight forward, exposed, but pretty easy.

 

Protect using rock pro's there's a lot of cracks if you keep looking.

 

there is a lot of trees to sling around on the way to south summit.

 

 

this tree can be used to protect and rappel.

 

Note you need atleast two ropes to rappel all the way.

 

Gears used: #2 camlot, 3 nuts(carried full nut set), two pickets for deadman at top of north summit, 60 m rope for rappel into gulley, 60 m rope for climbing into middle, two pickets to protect on the way and a deadman anchor and at top of middle.

 

middle to south is mostly straight forward.

 

coming down:

 

downclimbed till tree without any pro on a lead belay and rap using a 60m and 30m rope. this is a hassle as you have rap past a knot that joins the rope at some point. but you can easily walk down this slope.

 

it seemed like a 40-50 degree slope, the snow was very good for steps. had no issues

 

more pics at:

 

Gear Notes:

#2 camlot, nuts, 4 pickets, 2 60m ropes and 1 30m glacier line.

 

Approach Notes:

no snowshoes. pretty firm. commonwealth basin. carried snowshoes and removed soon.

[Off_White]

looks like a great day out in the mountains.