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Posted

Trip: Lane Peak - The Zipper

 

Date: 1/20/2014

 

Trip Report:

Went up and climbed the Zipper today with my brother. The route was in great shape with continuous snow or ice the entire length. Mostly solid sticks and good front-pointing with regular water ice bulges for good screws. The chock stone is still partially exposed, but there is an ice/snow runnel on its right side. The portion above the chock stone took a couple inches of boot toe and was a little narrow a few feet below the top of the route. The Zipper is a good combination of belays and simul-climbing right now.

 

Gear Notes:

Two tool shape right now. 2 pickets and 2 screws. One more picket would have been nice.

 

Approach Notes:

A little soft on the way out--but didn't take or need any floatation. The gate at Longmire is not being opened until a few minutes past 9am so don't arrive too early.

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Posted (edited)

As of 1/26 conditions seems to be about the same. We did the climb in two Running belays. I put up new webbing on the second repel. Fun day, T-shirt weather and long summit lunch. They kept the gate opened for us, We arrived back at Longmire around 5:25pm.

Edited by tvClimber

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