Crevasse Rescue Course Rec.

[Buckshot]

Forgive me if this is a repetitive question. I am looking onto crevasse rescue courses this Spring. I'm considering the AAI, RMI or NW Mountain School from L-worth. Any opinions on any of these? Is there a better alternative? Thanks.

[CaleHoopes]

All are sufficient, honestly. I'd focus on what's convenient. You should get all the same skills. Check and see if you can get with an AMGA certified guide (JR & Olivia are certified, many AAI guides are and some RMI guides are) then you will probably get more depth. Also, for something to do during the winter - find a ROCK RESCUE clinic somewhere. Why? Because many of the systems are very similar. Knowing knots and such and understanding the scenarios will help you with crevasse rescue for sure.

 

Other than the 3 you mentioned, you might be able to find a PRIVATE clinic with IMG, KAF Adventures or Pro Guiding in N Bend.

 

I also put on a fairly decent advanced crevasse rescue clinic through the Bushwhacker Climbing Club but we usually limit that to previous students (club preference).

 

Finally, crevasse rescue usually isn't a skill that you just "learn". You need to practice and probably keep learning. So, remember you are beginning a journey, not checking a box.

 

Good luck!

[grandpa]

...Other than the 3 you mentioned, you might be able to find a PRIVATE clinic with IMG...Good luck!

 

I took the "crack school" (crevase rescue) by IMG this summer, and it was well done, and worth the money/time. We spent one day learning and practicing knots, techniques and and the general idea of it all, then the following day we spent on a large cornice working out various problems.

 

Particularly interesting to me was the fact that a snow anchor actually works, and works well. I'm accustomed to dry, powdery winter snow that you can't make a snowball with and couldn't imagine packing any snow tight enough to hold anything, but it works.

 

I have to admit that I originally imagined (hoped for) doing the practical part in a crevasse, but in hindsight that would not have been a well thought out idea. Doing it over the side of a 40-50' cornice with a easy runout at the bottom gave us the chance to practice without the hazard of being in a crevasse.

 

So I say it's good info to have, no matter who you select, but I give IMG in Ashford a full thumbs up.

 

 

[GerritD]

I never took a course to learn crevasse rescue but I have practiced all of the skills many times in different scenarios. I can guarantee you I would perform the task better than any person who took the class once and never did a refresher. Also on my 5th and 6th times and so on I kept learning new tricks and pitfalls to avoid.

 

I went to where I would setup a top rope on bolts that is overhanging and practiced jugging, rapping, jugging, rapping, and tying many times. The mountaineers headquarters has overhanging anchors on their rock wall that work great for this, there are not a ton of overhanging crags you can easily setup top ropes on.

 

EDIT: I think the Marymoor climbing area has a section you can practice jugging an overhanging rope. I don't know how easy it is to lead up to the anchors but I can vouch that the Mountaineers headquarters has a what is essentially 5.0 leading up one side.

 

Also be sure to practice over a real snow lip as this will totally mess everything up more than you would think.

 

Taking a class is great, go for it, but just remember that the practice you do after is more important.

Edited February 12, 2014 by GerritD