[TR] Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress 12/7/2013

[jayhawk]

Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress

 

Date: 12/7/2013

 

Trip Report:

It was a struggle to walk past the awesome-looking Alpental Falls climbs, which look killer right now, but we did. We found Chair's NE Butt in nearly perfect conditions. We took the right variation on P1. It was cruiser, with good pro. The left variation would go right now with easier climbing, but tougher to protect. Snow was perfect styrofoam for Ueli-stylin'. The short ice step was short, steepish, and fun. Good quality ice.

 

 

Conditions are awesome right now. Go get some.

 

Gear Notes:

We only brought one picket. Two would have been nice. Pins, short screws, rock gear to 1" - we used it all. We used double 60's, and made it down in 2 raps, barely on each.

 

Approach Notes:

Skis would have sucked. No flotation necessary. A nice trail is beat in, and the walking's good.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Cool! Looks like you stayed left of the s-shaped gully and went straight up?

 

 

[jayhawk]

KK, we actually took the far right (S-shaped) gully on pitch one. Those tracks you see are from a party on a different day. We found the right variation very protectable, containing styrofoam snow and some ice. It didn't really require any pure mixed moves. The left variation looked easier (less steep), but was questionable in terms of protectability.

 

-Josh