[TR] Eldorado Peak - NE Face 10/30/2013

[TyClimber]

Trip: Eldorado Peak - NE Face

 

Date: 10/30/2013

 

Trip Report:

I wanted to get out and take advantage of this weather before it was gone, but couldn't come up with a mid week partner. Eldorado Peak had been on my list for a long time but I had never gotten around to it. The northeast face seemed like a decent solo option.

 

The conditions were pretty much perfect for moving fast, no snow until just before the glacier and then a mix of very firm powder and neve from there on up. Threatening clouds kept moving through and darkening the skies before blowing back out again. I ended up climbing in the sun most of the day, but the looming weather was a motivator to go fast. I found a nice line through the schrund that I would estimate was about 70' of 60*ish, after that the slope eased back and it was a cruise to the top. To my surprise the knife edge was actually in pretty good shape, I figured it would be melted down to more of a rounded blob after the weeks of warm sunny weather. I topped out 3.5 hours after leaving the car and as I was currently under blue skies, spent almost half an hour taking in the views. I've only been in the North Cascades a handful of times, they still blow my mind every time I'm up there. After that I cruised down the east ridge and made it back to the car for 6:15 round trip. Caught a few drops of rain on the drive home, so I guess I timed it right.

 

Pics

Looking up my line through the schrund

 

The knife edge section

 

Nice clouds over Forbidden on the way down

 

Approach Notes:

That trail is as steep as advertised. I guess at least it doesn't waste any extra distance.

[Alex Stoll]

So fast, nice work! Solo missions are a sign of true dedication. The only drawback is it's hard to get shots of the action.

[JasonG]

That is amazingly fast. I would be happy to get to the top in six hours, let alone round trip.

 

Those clouds are beautiful, post some more pics!

[chadwalker]

Bravo!!! That looks awesome!