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[TR] SW Face of Stein's Pillar --> Free Lunch - 10/5/2013

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Trip: SW Face of Stein's Pillar --> Free Lunch -


Date: 10/5/2013


Trip Report:





Last weekend saw excellent conditions in Central Oregon, perfect for a two-day 2-fer.


SW Face of Stein's Pillar, III 5.10d


This route is ultra-classic and should see way more traffic.


The beautiful pitch 1 finger crack.








Pitch 2 face climbing






Pitch 3 bulges








Free Lunch, Picnic Lunch Wall, III 5.10a PG-13


Pitch 1 traverse




Pitch 2 more traversing




Then for pitch 3-5 the camera got put away as we were focused on the climbing. Pitch 4 is 130 ft. of locking hand jams and crack work on solid rock way above the park. Awesome! Apart from pitch 4, the rest of the route is fairly serious and loose but what a proud line.




Both routes are worthy. The climbing and rock quality on Stein's is more aesthetic. Picnic Lunch Wall is iconic for Oregon. Good times on the tuff.



Gear Notes:

SW Face of Stein's - single set of TCUs and Cams from 00-#2. Single set of nuts. Extra finger sized pieces. 2 ropes for rappel of NE face (watch the knot on the first rap). 12-15 slings.


Free Lunch - double set of cams to #4, single set of nuts. 12-15 slings.


Approach Notes:


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excellent link up - more pts for swappng out the original picnic lunch wall for free lunch though :)


wasn't nearly so sun-soaked last time i was on that side of stein's....

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The best part of Free Lunch is chit-chatting with the tourist hikers on the trail below as you climb up the first pitch. The conversation can be amazing.


Something about the acoustics of the wall let you hear people talking down by the drinking fountain from way up there too.

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Mike Adams and I climbed Stein's in 1984, my first real summer of rock climbing under Mike's tutelage. A great ending to a great summer before heading off to the Army. At the time, there were about a half dozen entries in the summit register, including some rather famous names. I felt like I'd really done something. Your pictures bring back many great memories. Thanks!

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