[TR] Mt. Goode - NE Buttress 9/13/2013

[JMP123]

Trip: Mt. Goode - NE Buttress

 

Date: 9/13/2013

 

Trip Report:

Will keep this brief as there is plenty of good beta out there for the NE Buttress of Goode.

 

Spent three days climbing Mt. Goode. Started and ended at the Bridge Creek TH on Hwy 20 beginning Friday the 13th. Approach was met without issue. Bivied at 5200' with a large black bear night one.

 

Started walking around 4am Day 2. Standard route onto the glacier is still the best option right now. We had one ice screw and a v-threader and two technical axes between the two of us. A couple more ice screws would have sped up progress. Its three traversing pitches of ice before we were on top of the glacier proper. Be aware of ice fall from the ice cliff traversing onto the glacier.

 

Moat proved a non issue. We were able to get in up high on a fallen serac. We simul-climbed some and pitched out most of the route.

 

There was a tiny bit of really dirty snow at the bivy at Black Notch below the summit. We continued up and over down to Park Creek Camp...arriving well after dark :)If there was a trail down to Park Creek, we didn't find it. It could have been right next to us in the dark though and we wouldn't have known it...

 

Pictures and more beta at:

 

Good times on Mt. Goode

 

Gear Notes:

one ice screw, one v-threader, two technical axes (between the two of us), crampons, 60m rope, mid-range alpine rack with nuts, lots of water

 

Approach Notes:

Bridge Creek TH off of Hwy 20 (in and out)

[JasonG]

I would have thought the glacier impassable this late in the year, way to go! That is one of my favorite climbs in the Park, for sure.

[JMP123]

All in all, the glacier wasn't bad. Getting onto the glacier took a little while as it was all ice, but it still goes!