[TR] Tantalus Range, BC - Alpha Mountain's Northeast Spur in a day 9/8/2013

[ckohnstamm]

Trip: Tantalus Range, BC - Alpha Mountain's Northeast Spur in a day

 

Date: 9/8/2013

 

Trip Report:

 

 

On September 8, 2013, three friends and I climbed Alpha’s Northeast Spur in a 21-hour push. The sole reason for this trip report is the lack of information on this route on the Internet. A brief explanation of the route, as well as approach notes, can be found in Kevin McLane’s Alpine Select.

 

After crossing the cable at 6am, we headed for Lake Lovelywater, with some issues with a hornet nest. At the lake, continue to the start of the Lambda Lake trail, but take the trail that splits to the right, heading to Alpha’s East ridge. This intersection was quite clear to us, and the route was straightforward to the ridge. Many blueberries were encountered on this section!

 

Morning water break at Lake Lovelywater, with views of the East Ridge.

 

First view of the route from the bottom of the East ridge. Red line indicates our glacier route as well as the Northeast Spur.

 

Once on the glacier, we headed across what is referred to elsewhere as the “high traverse”, a simple section of glacier travel with one section of blue ice. This may not exist in future years, as last winter’s snowpack was quite low, with a hot and dry Squamish summer.

 

Looking back at some of the glacier travel.

 

At the bottom of the Spur, with Dione, Tantalus, and the Witch’s Tooth behind.

 

The moat below the Spur was surprisingly full, and even with the low snow year, it was not necessary to rope up, and only a small jump.

 

The first 75 meters or so of the Spur is class 3/4.

 

There was still some residual snow at the base of the route, so we chose not to access the central dihedral, choosing a face route at about 5.9 with limited pro.

 

First pitch.

 

The climbing eased off considerably after that pitch, with three more pitches of easy, loose climbing to a large ledge. Depending on how this section of climbing goes, it could be two pitches. After the large ledge, the ropes went away and we climbed class 3/4 over terrain in a beautiful setting to the summit.

 

Alpha’s shadow from high on the spur.

Reaching the summit by sunset was very spectacular. It took the group almost exactly twelve hours from river to summit.

 

Obligatory summit shot, looking southeast.

Looking to Serratus from the summit.

Heading down the west side involved steep down climbing, although easier routes were probably available. The moat was the most open we had ever seen. Martin had ice tools and climbed out of it. The rest of us rapped onto the top of the snowfield via two old pitons. The rest of the route included a long section of scree in the dark, then a long descent to the river. We arrived at the cable at 3am.

 

The route moves through interesting terrain in breathtaking scenery, and is highly recommended as a different route up this great peak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

-glacier gear

-cams to 3, full set of nuts, several hexes

[Woodcutter]

I like your photos, they tell a good story. The watermark is a bit distracting. Thanks for the report from an area I know nothing about.

[Bigtree]

Nice work/TR.