OlegV Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 I heard it is possible to do a snow-free downclimb of Stuart via the Sherpa glacier route. I've done it in May and it was steep. Does anyone have experiences doing this downclimb in late season? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 (edited) It's been a brazilian years, but in late September we found it necessary to rap the couloir, since we didn't have crampons. The couloir was 2" of soft slub over rock hard neve. Maybe there's an easy rock downclimb, but at the time it didn't jump out and catch my attention. We did get slings over horns the whole way down. Someone else had done this, using horrifying anchors, right before us. We just relocated their slings (all red, with initials and dates) to bomber excavated locations within 3' of the original horrible setting. Hah, I just realized this query was in advance of your complete N Ridge trip, and my advice is too little too late. Edited September 30, 2013 by Off_White Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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