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Trip: Jack Mountain - South Face attempt

 

Date: 8/7/2013

 

Trip Report:

With a couple days off I drove on Tuesday from Spokane to the North Cascades to enjoy the mountains. I decided to head up and check out Jack Mountain. I got a little late start and finally hit the Canyon Creek trail just before 5pm. A couple hours later, and 4,000 ft higher I arrived at Crater Lake for the night. The next morning dawned crisp and clear and I was up and moving before 6am. I decided to head around Crater Peak to the northeast in order to bypass Jerry Glacier. Conditions were great and the terrain was beautiful, however I turned around at the base of the South Face of Jack. I had a climbing partner lined up to do the Direct East Buttress of South Early Winter Spire the next day. And I got to calculating the time and realized that I wouldn't be back to the car until at least 9pm. I didn't want to push it too late with a big climbing day the next day. Turned around and decided to cross Jerry Glacier on the way back. The glacier is still very easy to navigate with the crevasses being concentrated into only a few areas.

 

Camp at Crater Lake

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Early morning light on the surrounding peaks.

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First view of Jack Mountain from point 7054

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Jack and Crater Mountains reflected in the crystal clear water of a small alpine pond.

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A look back at Jerry Glacier.

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A Panorama shot of Jack with other Cascade peaks dotting the horizon.

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Gear Notes:

Took strap crampons and an ax but didn't really need either as the snow was pretty minimal except for the glacier which was soft.

 

Approach Notes:

Followed a great trail all the way up to "point 7054" (basically the saddle to the east of Crater Peak). Lots of different route variations to choose from just to get to the south face.

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Posted (edited)

Looks like fun, the pictures are great. Looks like my kind of country.

 

Kind of curious how the E Butt of SEWS thing went too...

 

d

Edited by dougd

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