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Dchromey

Mt rainier Friday-Saturday 7/19-7/20

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Hey CC!

Me and my fellow climbers are going up to rainier to try for a summit attempt. It is our first time attempting the summit as independent climbers. We'll be camping up at ingraham flats Friday night. If anyone is planning on being there the same day, I wouldn't mind chatting it up with you and getting some mountain beta

 

Cheers everyone!

SDC10179.JPG

To the top we go!

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I was just on the summit from the Emmons side. I believe the routes are breaking up fairly good. The DC route seems to have some various Home Depot style hardware above it as far as the pix I've seen rolling around lately. Things are getting SOFT so go early IMHO. Also, this time in the summer the crowds are big. If you can get out of camp at 11:30, you will rock the summit without getting into the traffic jams.

 

Don't forget to check the blog: http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2013/03/disappointment-clever-2013.html

 

Also, if you have any guide friends or are friends with guide services, they might give out some beta if you ask. I've sometimes asked the guides I know and got some really good beta on how the route is looking and where the features are.

 

Finally, a few obvious pieces of advice that a few young mountaineers always miss:

 

1. Move fast through rockfall zones (Cathedral gap and around the corner on the traverse to Ingraham - and all of Disappointment Cleaver)

2. Coordinate with other teams when passing through these zones - make sure they are not above you and/or you're not above them

3. Move fast through icefall zones (Right before the nose of the cleaver)

4. Feel free to pass teams in safe areas - don't get hung up on staying behind a team and controlling your pace.

5. Don't cut corners - make sure your anchor doesn't cut corners and ends up in a crevasse as a result after the leader makes a safe trail.

6. DONT PRUSSIK INTO GEAR. There are fixed ropes on the cleaver at times. Feel free to use them as HAND LINES but do not attach gear or prussiks into it. You don't know if that gear would hold you in a fall and you also are creating unnessary risk for other teams as you fool around with a inefficient means of protection.

7. Coil ropes for scrambling. Go ahead and short rope up Cathedral Gap and carry coils. For the cleaver, coil in and short rope up the cleaver but wear - not carry your coils. Class 4 carry of coils may create unnessary risk. It's always best to not have a fully extended rope while trying to pull switchbacks in class 3/4 terrain with loose rock. In addition, coiling keeps the rope clean. Finally, being close together will help you keep someone getting momentum in a fall and facilitates good communication in a unsafe area. It just makes sense.

8. NO COTTON HANDKERCHIEFS - YER GONNA DIE.

 

That's my two bits.

 

Good luck and drive safe.

 

 

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