[TR] Cathedral Peak - SE Buttress & Unicorn Peaks 7/4/2013

[SmilingWhiteKnuckles]

Trip: California - Cathedral Peak - SE Buttress & Unicorn Peaks

 

Date: 7/4/2013

 

Trip Report:

This year again, we took the kids south to Yosemite and wondrous Tuolumne Meadows. Fittingly, on Independence Day, I was able to get out for a full day in the alpine. A year to the day since climbing the West Ridge of Conness, I'd been dreaming of Cathedral Peaks South Buttress ever since.

 

There's something really cool about waking up in the night, sneaking the coffee thermos and climbing pack out of the bear box, downing the coffee, and heading out on foot from the campground.

 

The early start paid off on this one for sure. There was a crescent moon in the east and stars above the meadow as I hiked the trail along the road. Found the climbers trail up Budd Creek off the Muir Trail easily enough and was surprised to see the trail lined with rocks for much of the way when the trees thinned. Trail was amazing, beautiful as the day dawned clear.

 

I stopped only briefly for a bathroom stop and was immediately taken for a free breakfast buffet by a growing swarm of mosquitoes. Hastening on, I reached the base of the buttress about 6:30am. I heard voices and noticed a couple gearing up to climb the right side.

 

IMG_5154 by j4cooper. Took this shot after returning. Lots of parties on the buttress.

 

Looking up at the orange rock, my nerves were going. I climbed up a bit after id'ing what looked like the easiest passage and back down thoughts flitting through my head without traction, breathing fast. Finally, I chilled out a bit and thought about it rationalizing that I had enough gear to aid through any difficulties and deciding to go for it.

 

Geared up, ate, drank, left my sneakers and an empty water bottle in a tree and started up. The first overlaps felt great. The 5.4 hand crack to a tree woke me up. From there, things calmed and the climbing was exposed and fantastic. Stemming these big ribs for awhile then blocks and always cracks and little knobs everywhere. Awesome.

 

Nearing the alcove, I met Kevin from Sonoma, the leader of the other early rising party. Just above that there was an extremely exposed hand traverse which had my breathing loudly.

 

Just above that was the chimney. I put my pack on two slings and placed it onto this bloc inside the chimney. Getting in was awkward and I had to climb up a bit before going in. When I got in, the bag was well below me. Shit. Reaching down, I was able to hook one of the slings with my foot and bring it up. After that, the chimney was really fun.

 

IMG_5130 by j4cooper, on Flickr

 

Above that, following the route topo became more difficult for some reason, but I was able to keep the grade mellow. In one particular section this meant exposed face climbing on stuccoed knobs, but those knobs are solid! and the section was short.

 

Soon enough, I crested the buttress and climbed the parallel cracks of the summit block and sat on top. Time was about 8:30am and the view was spectacular. A marmot just below pretty much pointed out the descent route and I was filled with joy and freedom.

 

IMG_5135 by j4cooper, on Flickr

 

IMG_5134 by j4cooper, on Flickr

 

Had a very leisurely descent back down to the base of the buttress and looking up there were now about five parties on the various routes.

 

From the buttress I hiked down the trail a bit and then across the basin below Budd Lake and up to the Unicorn Peaks. Between the Cockscomb and the Echo Peaks, the Matthes Crest was visible. All three Unicorn summits were exciting with cool views across the basin to Cathedral and north across Tuolumne Meadows up to Mt. Conness. Lembert Dome was particularly striking with some huge clouds building up to the east.

 

Completed the circuit by hiking down to Elizabeth Lake (and a refreshing plunge) and down the Elizabeth Lake trail right into Tuolumne Meadows Campground. Arriving around 3:30pm, I was lucky enough to catch the family back at camp just as they were heading out for ice cream at the Tuolumne Meadows Grill.

 

Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/j4cooper/sets/72157634663328586/

 

Approach Notes:

Start early to avoid traffic jams.

Edited July 16, 2013 by SmilingWhiteKnuckles

[Quarryographer]

Great TR. Definitely my fav climb for the grade to date. But I still have quite a ticklist down in that neighborhood.