nutpick Posted June 23, 2013 Posted June 23, 2013 (edited) Trip: Little South Face of Gimli - new route: Sailor Jerry - 5.10d - III Date: 6/16/2013 Trip Report: Just sending out a new route announcement for a route that JT and I were able to add to Gimli this past father's day. We were lucky that we had perfect weather and a long day to put this route up. We've included a 3 page document that shows the route, describes it pitch by pitch, and indicates the approach/descent. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf'>https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf This route is the first free route up the "little south face" of Gimli, that currently has one other route on it (see topo for details). We were happily surprised to have this route go, since the entire time we thought we might get shut down by the stepped roof at the top of the corner system we were following. One special note relates to the objective hazard associated with this route. The start of this route is exposed to cornice and rockfall hazard, so either start the route when it is very well frozen, or wait until the couloir melts out. We witnessed the cornice failing in the heat of the day, and it caused a major avalanche with some rocks. The good thing is that once you're about 10 ft off the ground, you're out of the way of danger. We hope that people repeat this not too difficult route, as we'd like some confirmation of the grade. Note that the crux section is short, and very well protected with shiny new bolts;) [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/969197_174605246048325_1929741184_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/946485_174605222714994_705858636_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/P1050457_Large_.JPG[/img] Some select pix: http://db.tt/Kx7sNdkL Approach Notes: download a topo with approach and gear notes here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf Edited June 23, 2013 by nutpick Quote
mthorman Posted June 23, 2013 Posted June 23, 2013 Great job on putting up a new route! The climbing looks really fun and the top and description are great. Way to get after it. Quote
nutpick Posted June 24, 2013 Author Posted June 24, 2013 Thanks! it's a great route, and I'm hoping for more repeats, that's why I tried to do a good job describing it. Quote
Eric T Posted June 29, 2013 Posted June 29, 2013 Outstanding!!! Great work, can't wait to give it a try. Quote
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