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nutpick

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About nutpick

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  • Birthday 07/22/1976
  1. Thanks! it's a great route, and I'm hoping for more repeats, that's why I tried to do a good job describing it.
  2. Trip: Little South Face of Gimli - new route: Sailor Jerry - 5.10d - III Date: 6/16/2013 Trip Report: Just sending out a new route announcement for a route that JT and I were able to add to Gimli this past father's day. We were lucky that we had perfect weather and a long day to put this route up. We've included a 3 page document that shows the route, describes it pitch by pitch, and indicates the approach/descent. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf'>https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf This route is the first free route up the "little south face" of Gimli, that currently has one other route on it (see topo for details). We were happily surprised to have this route go, since the entire time we thought we might get shut down by the stepped roof at the top of the corner system we were following. One special note relates to the objective hazard associated with this route. The start of this route is exposed to cornice and rockfall hazard, so either start the route when it is very well frozen, or wait until the couloir melts out. We witnessed the cornice failing in the heat of the day, and it caused a major avalanche with some rocks. The good thing is that once you're about 10 ft off the ground, you're out of the way of danger. We hope that people repeat this not too difficult route, as we'd like some confirmation of the grade. Note that the crux section is short, and very well protected with shiny new bolts;) [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/969197_174605246048325_1929741184_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/946485_174605222714994_705858636_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/P1050457_Large_.JPG[/img] Some select pix: http://db.tt/Kx7sNdkL Approach Notes: download a topo with approach and gear notes here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf
  3. This is actually Cam, and I reposted David's TR here. Not sure what to expect on the centre route wrt to anchors...even according to peter koedt the line is not stellar. midway up it gets pretty runout and the line doesn't really follow the main weakness. we were in the vicinity of the lower half of this while putting up this route, and the nature of the face is that while there's not tons of gear, you can usually find something that will work as a belay, but bring pins. The left side route is in good shape, and a bolt has been added to P1 and P2 (with peter koedt's blessing) as well as a bolted station at the top of P2. Hope that helps...it's a great face.
  4. how to post a trip report if I'm new?

    never mind, i figured it out...sorry
  5. Trip: Valhalla Range, South Selkirks - FA:Étoile Filante IV 5.11c, 300m, S face of Asgard Date: 7/23/2011 Trip Report: A new route put up this summer by David Lussier and Cam Shute. full trip report here with photos . Étoile Filante IV 5.11c, 300m, South Face of Asgard Peak F.A. David Lussier and Cam Shute, July 2011 The story behind the line The South Face of Asgard has attracted climbers for almost 40 years. The first route up this sheer featured wall, the “Center Route IV 5.8”, was climbed by Valhalla pioneers Peter Koedt, Peter Rowat along with Greg Shannon in 1973. Peter Koedt returned to Asgard a few years later, in 1975, to climb the “Left-Center Route IV 5.8” with James Hamelin and Jara Popelkova. These two traditional routes follow the most dominant features on the face and continue to challenge climbers to this day. They offer varied climbing (cracks, flakes & chicken heads) with interesting route finding along with sustained difficulty. Up until now these where the only established routes on the south face. The vision of a new route on this face has been shared by many over the years. From various trips in Mulvey Basin over the years, I had always been interested by the complexity of the upper right side of the wall. It wasn’t until July 2010 that Cam Shute and I ventured into Mulvey with the intention of exploring that potential. Due to the disconnected nature of the crack systems, some blank looking section and the steepness of the wall, we decided to bring a hammer drill along with some bolts. This exploratory trip, culminating with a high point somewhere half way up the steep upper right wall, revealed the potential for a great line on featured but compact rock. We were already planing our return. Our vision evolved some more before we returned in July 2011. With a greater knowledge about the nature of the rock and the various line options we decided to bring the drill again. We were considering bolting an interesting looking blank arête to help straighten the lower part of the route and also using bolts for adequate protection on the upper compact wall. If the route turned out to be good quality, we also contemplated bolting the belays to facilitate rappelling. All of this would of course be done while climbing from the bottom. We were very excited about possibly finishing the route. The end result was greater than anticipated. The vision, our skills and luck combined with our commitment allowed us to complete a new modern mixed (bolts/trad) route up the beautiful right side of the South Face. A lot of the visioning and actual route location decisions beautifully came together over the 4 days Cam and I were working on the wall. The climbing on the direct arête lower down (pitch 2) was challenging and quality while providing a more direct line. The intricacies of the steep upper wall revealed themselves after a few days of committing route finding on the sharp end. In someways the route revealed itself and we basically connected the dots. Completing it was very satisfying but putting the puzzle together was the best part. We really hope that others get to enjoy this quality and modern alpine rock route, feel free to download the topo and route description just below. Access and Description topo Name background “Étoile Filante” is french for “Shooting Star”. The name choice comes as a tribute to Valhalla pioneer Peter Koedt who sadly passed away in the fall of 2010. The inspiration for the name comes from the song “Étoile Filante” by “Les Cowboy Fringant”. This beautiful song compares each human’s life existence, turmoils, successes and absurdity to the passage of a shooting star. We feel Peter was a visionary climber who put lots of skills and creativity amongst the Valhalla peaks. We will remember his passage and contribution as a brilliant shooting star.
  6. sorry if this is a repeat question, but do you need some kind of account privledge to post a trip report? I just opened an account today. thx in advance, cam
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