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Trip: Mt Rainier - Liberty Ridge

 

Date: 6/2/2013

 

Trip Report:

I'm finally sitting down to right my first trip report on cc.com after years of lurking on here to gather route info. Time to contribute I suppose, although a little late for this one as there are already a couple other TRs for the route during the same window. Would have had a quicker turn-around if work hadn't sent me to S. America................

 

In late May and early June, Z-man and I connected for a 2-week stint of avoiding responsibility and chasing weather windows to put together a enjoyable string of climbs in Leavenworth, Washington Pass and Darrington. As a conclusion, we enjoyed fine conditions on a trip up Liberty Ridge.

 

This was my first time up Lib Ridge after years of staring at the line from a distance on sunny days from the city. It was all that I had hoped for: enjoyable and at times tiring climbing, and spectacular views and position. Couldn't have asked for a better partner either.

 

Approach was wet, shin-to-knee deep snow:

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Camp at Curtis Ridge was comfortable with water dripping through the rocks, a light breeze, and sunshine.

 

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There was a tent platform dug out at Thumb Rock that we set-up on. Having been 5 feet further down the ridge would have been awesome, we were battered with winds all night.

 

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Steep and fabulous snow above Thumb rock. Occasionally knee-deep, but mostly better. The tracks from the party the day before were unfortunately mostly gone.

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Approaching the 40 degree ice noted in other TRs found ~12,000'. We were only on the continuous ice for what I'd estimate to be 800'. Above which the ice can be avoided to the right, closer to the ridge crest.

IMG_1621.JPG

 

Rather than cross bergschrund, Z-man suggested we climb the directly left up ~100' of enjoyable easy-moderate ice. Good call, as it put us on the summit in no-time.

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Cruiser snow approaching Liberty Cap, variably wind-blasted, firm to ankle-deep

IMG_16401.JPG

 

The walk down down was basically a 6-hour debate about whether it would be worth carrying skis all the way up the route, since walking down sucked. Still undetermined, will need to repeat the route with skis to figure it out.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

tools, crampons, ice screws, 30m rope, sunscreen.

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