First Glaciated Mountain

[smantani]

Hope these questions don't seem completely silly. Here is the background info including mine and my partner's snow and ice experience.

 

We have climbed some alpine gullies (a few pitches WI 3 max on lead) in the white mountains in NH as well as longer easier mountaineering routes up Mount Washington. We have taken a glacier skills and crevasse rescue class and the AIARE level 1 class. We have also read about and practiced all the skills necessary for climbing bigger, more remote mountains. All that being said I have some questions having never actually climbed a glaciated mountain (or even been to the NW). We are coming out May 31st and plan on doing the Coleman Deming route up Mount Baker soon after arriving.

 

Should we bring willow wands, avalanche gear (beacon, shovel, probe), are two pickets each sufficient?

 

Any recommendations are more than welcome. Looking forward to exploring the beautiful NW!

 

Thank you!

 

Steve

[tvashtarkatena]

Bring an ATV - unfortunately, the Glacier Creek road is washed out 7 mi from the Coleman Deming TH indefinitely.

 

The Shriebers Meadow TH to the Easton Glacier route is open as an alternative, however, so not to worry. Hey, its a shorter drive.

 

Avi gear will no longer be necessary. 2 pickets is fine. A GPS may be more convenient than wands if you have one. Goggles may come in handy if white outs are in the cards.

 

Other than that, get on that thing!

 

 

Edited May 22, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[Eric Anderson]

We're going up that weekend, see you up there.

[tvashtarkatena]

Oh, and check the NOAA point forecasts beforehand. A foul weather back up plan - rock climbing or hiking East of the crest, for example, is always a good idea around here.

[smantani]

Thanks for the obviously very important info. Probably wouldn't have figured that out myself until the day before leaving or my stop at the ranger station.

 

Easton glacier looks like a pretty ideal into to glacier travel anyway.

 

If the weather is good and the trip to Baker goes well we are thinking about trying the Adams glacier later on that week. If there is anything I should know about that route that I can't get from the guide books, I am all ears.

 

Much appreciated!

 

[tvashtarkatena]

Might as well go for Rainier. It's a shorter drive.

[Alan Trick]

Is the washout new? We were able to drive up to the snow on the road just a few weeks ago.

[tvashtarkatena]

Y nosotros tambien.

 

Yes, its recent.

 

Edited May 23, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[tvashtarkatena]

I may have been premature about my 'leave your avi gear at home' comment:

 

Special avi forecast statement - especially for Mt. Baker

 

Snowshoes or skis might not be a bad idea, either.

Edited May 23, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[christophbenells]

i think dissapointment cleaver on rainier, or emmons winthrop would be right up your alley.

 

big, glaciated, but not too hard, lots of people, rangers and guides around so it is not too intimidating. still you will need to be self sufficient though.

 

no wands, gps maybe, map and compass yes, 2 pickets is fine.

 

it also resembles a bit of expedition climbing, with ladders spanning crevasses, fixed lines and fights with porters.

 

 

Edited May 27, 2013 by christophbenells

[christophbenells]

maybe they werent porters...thats why they didnt want to carry my shit!

[smantani]

Thanks for the input and recommendations. We will keep an eye on the weather and avi forecasts. I think we will head up to Baker once we arrive and play the rest of our 10 days by ear.

[Cyclopath]

The Shriebers Meadow TH to the Easton Glacier route is open as an alternative, however, so not to worry. Hey, its a shorter drive.

 

Schrieber's Meadow is gorgeous, the approach hike is wonderful, and it's a fun glacier to play on.