Mountaineers Route Permit question

[Ptown_Climber1]

A couple of Portlanders here wanting to get down and climb the Mountaineers Route on Whitney in May.....does anyone know the permit requirements/protocol for that? Is it the same process for the trail ascent? I thought I heard somewhere that it was.... Thanks in advance!

[NateF]

The ranger station in Lone Pine used to issue them and I would imagine they still do, or could tell you what the process is. I'd call them.

[Ptown_Climber1]

Thanks....I'll do that!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

I believe you need the lottery permit for a day climb but a different permit for the overnight. The overnight zone there allows 10 people a day. People,not parties.

[Buckaroo]

Just did this 2 years ago, here's the skinny for doing this with overnight camping. The day permit is different and easier.

 

It's sort of like the Alpine Lakes Wilderness permit system.

 

1/2 of the permits are given out in January. The other 1/2 are given out on a daily basis during the season via lottery.

 

I believe it's 4 persons per day via the daily lottery. The trick is to go in on a weekday, Monday thru Thursday. There's a lot less people then. If you go in on Fri or Sat you don't have a chance, like 40 people, no exaggeration.

 

We went in on Thur and there were 8 people total and only 2 others for the Mountaineer route so there was enough for everyone that wanted to go that route that day, no need to even have a drawing. The very next day Friday, there was 42 people in line for 4 permits.

 

It's the Mount Whitney Ranger Station in Lone Pine, they have a website, the lottery is the same time everyday.

 

http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/about-forest/districts/?cid=stelprdb5136221

 

Wear helmets, the Mountaineers gulley is exposed to rockfall. I also recommend some acclimatization if you are coming from sea level, will make it more enjoyable. We spent 4 days up high before summiting. In May be prepared for snow and ice.

 

http://images.summitpost.org/original/526496.jpg

 

 

 

[Ptown_Climber1]

That is really helpful.....Yeah, we'll be prepared for snow/ice, etc....how's the climb above the notch? Ice screws or anything like that necessary? Seems like everyone has their own different take on it.

 

Love the picture (s)...that's gonna get me through another afternoon at work.

 

The permit situation has me a little worried, but hopefully the MR in May is still not overly populated. Flying from PDX, what's best airport? Ontario looks like it to me unless I'm missing something....

[KaskadskyjKozak]

10 permits a day: 6 by reservation online up to 6 months in advance; 4 as walk-ins

 

I talked to the ranger yesterday by phone.

[Buckaroo]

We took Reno, believe it's the same distance and a lot less traffic. Plus you are starting at 5000' so more acclimatization.

 

Above the notch is where the climbing starts. In Sept it was relatively snow free and a moderate scramble about 45 deg class 4 or 5.0 that sort of wound back and forth. Assuming in May it's still full of ice and snow.