[TR] The Tooth - South Face 2/10/2013

[LukeShy]

Trip: The Tooth - South Face

 

Date: 2/10/2013

 

Trip Report:

After getting ourselves in prime climbing condition on Saturday (Long a$$ Rock Mtn. Ski tour for myself and partying at Alpental for my partner) we set off for Pineapple Pass around 8am.

The cat track/trail was nice solid hard pack, which made for some fast travel to Source Lake. The early morning bluebird sky and views of peaks around were a welcome sight as we were hoping some of the route would be melted out to climb.

 

Source Lake

 

The snow got soft beyond the lake so we put on the slow-shoes from there and headed up, trying to stay on old ski/board tracks for extra flotation. We made the upper basin in no time and followed the steep boot pack up the gully just right of Pineapple Pass. Thanks to whoever chopped the cornice back at the top.

 

heading up to the notch

 

From there we geared up and traversed over to the start of the route, which was looking in good shape.

 

leading first pitch

 

My partner lead out on the first pitch, working his magic to find the holds buried under the snow. Since neither of us had climbed Das Tooth prior, He ended up climbing past the dead tree stretching the standard P1 and P2 into a perfect 60m go.

 

Climbing up to my partner (the dead tree on the right)

 

I quickly followed behind, realized that some moves were a bit more spicy in the nice snowy/icy/wet conditions, a fine lead from my partner!

 

I lead the next pitch. Once again combo-ing the standard P3 and P4 into a 60m mixed snow and rock climb to the summit. There were 2 snow patches, one fun exposed snow traverse and plenty of trees and fixed gear to the top. (tragically no booty was acquired.) I used my ice tool a few times, but was mostly nice to have for the snow traverse.

 

My lead - snow, rock, snow, fixed gear, than rock

first snow bit

 

We were unsure of the true summits condition so I belayed out my partner to the top, better safe than sorry.

 

Summit Stoke

 

We swapped places, I tagged the summit than we began our decent.

 

More Stoke

 

Getting down consisted of “find an exposed tree and dig to the bottom cause you know there’s a sling and at least 3 rap rings on it”. We ended up doing 5 raps, simply because we were uncertain of where all the standard stations were located. No new trees were slinged or rap rings added.

 

 

Hike out was uneventful, just wish I’d had my skis, there was still plenty of nice pow to ski.

It was a great winter climb, can’t wait for the next one!

 

Clouds rolling in from the West

 

Flickr Photo Set

 

Gear Notes:

Tools and a small alpine rack. Rap rings unnecessary.

 

Approach Notes:

Means of flotation is nice.

[ajpederson]

Climbing up to my partner (the dead tree on the right)

 

 

That's not a very nice thing to call your partner.

[LukeShy]

Climbing up to my partner (the dead tree on the right)

 

 

That's not a very nice thing to call your partner.

Well... that comment is up to the readers interpretation.