[TR] Bit O' Arizona Sunshine - Abra 12/1/2012

[fgw]

Trip: Bit O' Arizona Sunshine - Abra

 

Date: 12/1/2012

 

Trip Report:

We’ve dreamt of giving Abracadaver (great topos here & a description here ) a go probably ever since our first visit to the Stronghold some ten years ago. Much of it was lack of skill of course, more of it was intimidation and there were lower hanging fruits to snatch first. We finally gave it a whirl last Saturday and wow!! I can say with certainty that it was the best line we’ve climbed in the Dragoons (no contest) and probably one of the best climbs we’ve done anywhere. A whole lot of climbing is packed into those five pitches with each one offering something different: from water groove groveling, to a full on off-width street fight, to finger and hand cracks, to an easy chimney and of course some delicate face moves are sprinkled throughout. Different pitches seem to clearly favor different climber builds (apparently neither of our builds suits the OW as neither one of us got it cleanly)…think finger size vs. reach but I’ll let you figure out what is best for which pitch.

 

More pretty words & photos here.

 

Hello ladies:

 

Earlier this year we did Cragaholic’s Dream (very nice, 5.10- 6 pitches & 0 bolts):

 

And the classic Forest Lawn 5.9 pitch (holy shit – what a pitch!!!)…Shirley yelling down for a cig halfway up the lieback:

 

Last trip the time has come to try the harder classic.

 

N. face of the Rockfellow Dome – Abra takes the crack system in the center of the photo:

 

Heading up P1 – funky water groove. A party above is in the thick of it on the OW:

 

Shirley on the P2 OW:

 

Shirley following P3:

 

Rest stance before the traverse:

 

Starting P4 – blind placements (for me anyway) in the intermittent crack then cut right up the face:

 

Unknown climbers on the summit of End Pinnacle as seen from the top of the Friendly Flake:

 

View down from the final pitch above all difficulties. Shirley is at the cool belay atop the Friendly Flake:

 

Poor (no) OW technique.

 

Love that Arithona:

 

Gear Notes:

bigguns for Abra & Cragaholics.

 

Approach Notes:

if driving, turn left before LA to shave off 2 hrs. if flying, go southwest (100lbs of gear can enjoy the trip w. you for free).

[Drederek]

Nice TR, if this doesn't finally get me down there nuthin will!

[fgw]

thanks. You should definitely check it out - keep in mind though that much of the cool stuff is closed for nesting every year (Jan or Feb onwards I think).

[matt_warfield]

I spent a couple years in Prescott climbing at Granite Mountain so know about AZ sunshine and copious granite.

 

It used to be quite popular but the raptor closures killed its rep as an early spring destination.

 

I think AZ started the Angry Birds craze.

 

And history and geography buffs will enjoy Googling Cochise Stronghold. It has a rich history before the climbing era.

 

Great TR and pics.

Edited December 7, 2012 by matt_warfield

[fgw]

thanks Matt. That state has some gems - sandstone, basalt, granite...towers, domes, walls. Granite Mtn is high on the list of places I'd like to try someday - keep hearing about the stiff ratings.

[matt_warfield]

thanks Matt. That state has some gems - sandstone, basalt, granite...towers, domes, walls. Granite Mtn is high on the list of places I'd like to try someday - keep hearing about the stiff ratings.

 

Granite Mountain has always been a schooling ground for Yosemite climbers who grew too big for their britches and that is saying something. Back in the day of Henry Barber, they would come wearing their painters pants and flat caps and put their tails between their legs pretty soon.

 

Try Jump Back Jack Crack sometime or suggest it to others that wonder about underrating.

 

I spent many days watching the sunset from the flat boulder beneath the main wall after climbing, then racing for the trailhead to beat dark.

 

It is an awesome place but as beforementioned is closed for raptors during prime season.

Edited December 7, 2012 by matt_warfield

[stevetimetravlr]

That looks great!!

[bwrts]

Good times always had in Stronghold. Thanks for the reminders....

the nesting closure usually starts Mar 1 Cochise (WML) Dome and Rockfellow Group being the only closed crags til june.

Granite Mt is earlier.