[TR] Kings Peak - Jester 5.8 120m 6/14/2012

[smithxrandy]

Trip: Kings Peak - Jester 5.8 120m Vancouver Island

 

Date: 6/14/2012

 

Trip Report:

June 14 - Jester 5.8 120m - Kings Peak

Sunny, 5c Overnight, 15c daytime

 

Started the season anxiously, proving to be a little too soon. Leaving from Victoria BC means a 4 hour drive into Strathcona Park to begin the trek, then a 3 hour hike starting around midnight. Route finding was alright although we started following tracks and lost our route toward the end. We happened to meander to the top a meadow, not where we we headed. But then after a little sleep, the sun rose and sure enough we were closer than we thought. After another 45 minutes we were in the ampitheatre. Looking up toward our projected goal.. Tea with her majesty.. there were multiple large cornices looming.

Opting for the easiest way out, we headed for the only line up without a cornice above. Climbed 5m up to a nicely slung horn in our boots, then swapped over to shoes and racked up. 3 pitches with mediocre belay ops lead us to a wet and snowy topout. Just kidding, we had to fight our way through a bit of an ice mushroom to gain the summit. Luckily the snow hadnt yet deteriorated too much, as we free soloed the 50m from the rock to the summit. Topped out around 1 or 2 to a bluebird day ahead. The hikers route down proved to be way longer than expected under 2 feet of snow. The round trip from meadow to meadow was about 10 hours. After such a long proving day, the drive home was BRUTAL. Great start to the season

 

 

Gear Notes:

BD .3 to 3 , rack of nuts and hand to fist sized hexes

Should have brought crampons and an ice screw or two. Glad I had my axe..

 

Approach Notes:

Trailhead is located down a nice not so often travelled dirt road approximately 18.5 km from the Buttle Narrows bridge. The hike in usually takes about 3 hours.. longer if its under snow and in the dark haha.

Edited November 19, 2012 by smithxrandy

[chris]

Thanks Smith - I've been thinking of heading out to the Island for a while now. What's the best guidebook(s), and perhaps the best climbing shop to be found?

 

[G-spotter]

The best guidebook is Island Alpine from Wild Isle.

There's a good climbing gear shop in Campbell River.

[smithxrandy]

^^! Also forgot to mention it, but the rock was actually pretty solid.. only one microwave size block to be cleaned which we took care of. Fairly good gear too.