topo [TR] Mt. Stuart - Gorillas In The Mist (New Topo) 10/7/2012

[zeedub]

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Gorillas In The Mist (New Topo)

 

Date: 10/7/2012

 

Trip Report:

Alongside a few friends, I headed up to check out GITM last month. It has seen a bit of attention in the past few seasons and we were curious about the Stuart's complex West Wall. We snagged one of fall's final dry days of splitter weather, though it was still plenty cold in the morning for the first couple pitches. With the shorter daylight and our first time on the wall, we decided to exit via the original route upper pitches to the wall’s right versus the striking direct finish. I look forward to returning for the direct finish pitches.

 

Our experience on the route was fairly smooth, and we don't have any major new information/beta to add to the handful of reports already offered here on CascadeSprayers. However, we felt the currently posted topo was adventurously vague and missed the detail level that would aid smoother route finding for a party new to this wall.

 

A new Cascade line needs traffic to become established, and to help encourage folks to get on this route we felt compelled to put together a new topo in order to clarify how to navigate GITM on this intricate and multi-featured face.

 

We consulted with the four in our group, as well as chatted with Sol to make sure we weren’t missing something they experienced.

 

Here is a link to the two page topo in PDF (10 megs, letter format, 0.25” print margins):

www.zacwest.net/topos/GITMTopo-Oct2012.pdf

 

Jpegs at good print-quailty are bit too large to post, but I have included lower-res images below if the link above breaks at some point in the future. These may work a bit better for those of us that prefer topos/info on smartphones while on route.

 

As noted in other threads, the season is a bit later for this wall as it faces slightly NW and hence doesn’t see sun until mid afternoon often taking more time to dry out compared to other aspects on Stuart. It’s unlikely this route will see another send until next July, but we hope this topo proves useful for the folks interested in this route.

 

A shout out to Dave, Elliot, and Dan for helping document our collective experience (and a fantastic day in the fall alpine together). Thanks to Sol and Blake for vetting the topo as well as GoatBoy for giving permission to use his West Wall photo.

 

Page One (Topo)

 

Page Two (Route Beta)

 

Gear Notes:

Single Set C3’s + Wires, Double C4 #0.3 through #3, Single #4. Single 60 or 70m rope for walk off. Two ropes may help if rapping.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Follow standard Ingall’s Lake/Stuart Pass approach for West Ridge. Drop down from shoulder toward Goat Pass. Obvious wall is on your right. Ascent Snow (and/or Talus) toward center base of wall. Line starts on splitter cracks in the middle of whiter rock area.

[abarlow]

Awesome! Thanks guys. Someday I hope to get on this. A question about the history here. I believe first ascent was 2009. Who placed the 1993 bolt?

[wayne]

Thanks for all the work, Its on my radar for next year. Supertopo does Stuart Range next?

[zeedub]

A question about the history here. I believe first ascent was 2009. Who placed the 1993 bolt?

 

Abarlow: There have been various efforts on this wall in previous years by others. See the postings about half way down this discussion that gets into some of it:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/893015/3

 

Additionally, while on route we saw a handful of tat anchors on a few ledges and features throughout the climb on lines 100m+ away from GITM.

 

 

[JensHolsten]

Most of that tat you saw was most likely mine from early forays...Also, Sol and I did establish an unlikely rappel route down the wall a couple of years ago. Very nice topo!

[Gaucho Argentino]

Clap-clap-clap!!!

Thanks, Buddies, awesome job, and very cool of ya'll to share!! Agghhh, I want my freaking program to finish so I have time again!! Thanks for keeping alive those of us that can not be out these days !! :-)

GA