[TR] Leavenworth - Outer Space 9/29/2012

[arentz]

Trip: Leavenworth - Outer Space

 

Date: 9/29/2012

 

Trip Report:

Peter and I went to Snow Creek Wall last weekend for a quick trip up Outer Space. Got to hang out with a few cool people and climb a great route. Really a great climb with some crazy crack/chickenhead climbing up top. I don't think I've previously been up anything with chickenheads like that.

 

I know that there have been a lot of reports out there, so I'll space you the details and just make a few observations.

 

1. I didn’t think the crux traverse was any harder than 5.9, just strenuous. There are good feet at the crux if you take the time to look for them.

2. We found that the last pitch in the Nelson guide was really more than a full 60 m rope length to the top. I suppose you could have scrambled the easy 5th class stuff to the summit, but I didn’t feel that was safe. We belayed about 20 feet from the top, but a 70 m rope would make it much easier to set up a good belay and still limit it to 1 pitch.

3. The descent was well marked with cairns. If you don’t see them, you’ve gone down the wrong/early gully.

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

We brought a full rack to a no. 4 with doubles of the no. 1 and no. 2, which helped on the last two pitches of hand crack.

 

Approach Notes:

It took us about 1.5 hours to the wall at a leisurely pace. There are plenty of cairns to mark the way.

[matt_warfield]

A couple of additions from my trips up "Space":

 

The traverse is good 5.9 and technical with footwork important as you noted.

 

Last time I did it, two dudes free solo'd right past us, which is a psych out.

 

The knobs are there as the sirens of climbing: they are easier but ever more dangerous than the crack where protection is plentiful.

 

Belays are not always convenient.

 

The descent is keep left, be careful, and don't wear your rockshoes.

Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield

[samthaman]

also, in my experience, bring a headlamp

Edited October 5, 2012 by samthaman

[matt_warfield]

Yes, many a party has underestimated the time required for ascent and descent or been held up by slow parties ahead and spent a glorious night at the top in an unplanned bivy with the goats for company.