[TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 9/23/2012

[lunger]

Trip: Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer

 

Date: 9/23/2012

 

Trip Report:

The rat and I had a great time on this route yesterday--the middle pitches were particularly fun climbing, and cleaner than the lowest and highest bits. The route is thoughtfully bolted (for travelling up and down) and yet preserves the difficulty and adventure we all seek. With more traffic this will be a fantastic climb. Rolf encountered and trundled some big unstable blocks on the first pitch (fun to watch from a safe perch); minimal loose rock remains.

 

With a first mellower pitch, peaking difficulties in the middle, and the bubbly face-climbing finish, this 6-pitch route is reminiscent of a more stout and adventurous version of the popular Davis-Holland/Lovin’ Arms linkup at Index.

 

We approached in cold and misty conditions but the rock was dry. This guide (posted in developers’ original TR) is a great reference for the approach and the route.

 

rat on pitch 1:

 

And following pitch 2, about to pull the undercling to squeeze/lieback crux:

 

 

Pitch 3, again about to pull the crux:

 

rat finishing up on the steep and bubbly rock of pitch 6, looking down from the top:

 

A few more pics here (even caught a rat-smile in one).

 

Thanks again Dave and crew!

 

[Off_White]

With more traffic this will be a fantastic climb.

 

A good thing for any Darrington route, more traffic will only make it better and build on the FA's cleaning work. Moss never sleeps.

 

Good pics & report.