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[TR] Sahale Mountain - SE Ridge/S Face 8/15/2012


dougd

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Trip: Sahale Mountain - SE Ridge/S Face

 

Date: 8/15/2012

 

Trip Report:

On 15Aug12 Mentat and I joined forces to climb Sahale Mtn. His first choice was to find a partner for the TF traverse had not worked out, and he kindly agreed to give Sahale a go. I'd have loved to attempt the TF traverse, and it will remain high on my "list" if I actually ever start a list, but being a couple of relative noobs to NCNP climbing, and me still recovering from serious injuries sustained in a motorcycle accident 15May12 (three days after climbing Mt Hood's Cooper Spur!), Sahale would give us a good look around, and I'd get to test my strength and conditioning...

 

We met at the Marblemount Ranger Station around noon on 14Aug12 to find all the camping permits taken so we secured a glacier camp permit for the 15th and set off for Sauk Mtn which turned out to be a nice hike with 360deg views. After dinner of burgers and beverages we headed out to sort gear and got ravaged by mosquitos in the process. We then headed to "camp 1" at a turnout along the road in the park.

 

Illegal? yes. Comfortable? yes indeed... Mentat contemplates the accommodation...

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Trail above Cascade Pass is lush...

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Sahale Mtn from the Sahale Arm. Still quite a bit of snow up there. Glacier camp on the three mounds in foreground.

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This pic taken from Sahale glacier down to glacier camp. Views from this camp are spectacular. Johannesburg, the Triplets, et al...

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More glacier camp viewing...

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Johannesburg Mtn. in the morning light. NE Butt in foreground. Gulp!

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Smallish crack on the Sahale Glacier.

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View of the route/summit block. We broke the rope out for the last 80' due to my being a chickenshit to solo the class 4/5? moves there and my good natured partner not minding at all leading this pitch. Did two short rappels off the summit with our 30 meter rope.

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Gratuitous summit shot.

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Boston Peak from the summit of Sahale.

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The hike out was eventful. Ptarmigan and her chicks, deer, and wonderful fragrances from the blooming flowers.

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Is this heaven?

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I think we both enjoyed this trip a lot. It was fun getting out with a very strong, competent partner on this moderate climb to get the lay of the land and see how my body is progressing. Progress is good. We made good time to glacier camp and went ahead and summited same day (5000ft gain, 1000ft loss), then spent the evening taking in the views and out to the car the next day. I'll be training hard this winter, and come back next year to the N Cascades. I've seen a lot of beautiful country in my life. None better than this.

 

Next up, packing for Kings Peak in Utah...

 

Gear Notes:

30meter 8.5mm rope, a few slings, ice axes. No crampons necessary for us.

 

Approach Notes:

Really nice trail to the upper Sahale Arm (yeah there's a few switchbacks, 33 according to Mentat's count) then gets into some boulders and loose shale before getting to glacier camp.

Edited by dougd
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