Water Posted August 17, 2012 Posted August 17, 2012 Trip: Mt. Shuksan (Mohican edition) - Fisher Chimneys Date: 8/11/2012 Trip Report: First saw this climb in 2008 before I'd done anything more than stuff on the AT or a few Oregon scrambles. Needless to say it stood in my mind as a beacon of climbing aspiration. Having done it I'm sure it was well within my abilities a while ago but it still feels spectacular to accomplish something I'd kind of dreamt about for a while. Plans last year fell through due to weather. I managed to come across so many reports of train-wrecks on the chimneys or the approach that I studied it fiercely and got ample feedback from a handful of CC'ers (thanks much) Uncas and Hawkeye joined me (Chingachgook) in this pursuit. We stayed at a motel in sedro-woolley on friday night. Self-issued permits in Glacier. Managed to run across a guy Ryan from DC who was actually in the planning for 2011 that fell through. Since then Ryan has stayed with me in PDX and attempted hood. So seeing him by coincidence on the route was fun. We had an open bivy on a rock outcropping with 360degree views right at the edge of the Upper Curtis Glacier. Up there by 2:30 or 3 and took a nap for a while. Wonderful spot to be watching the Perseids meteor shower. Running water from the glacier was luxurious to have. views from camp: Uncas and Hawkeye supplied some fine firewaters (whiskey and wine) for the group The rest of the trip was uneventful. approximate times: Left camp at 5:00am, summit and down by 9? back at camp at 10:30? ate and relaxed a bit. Car at 5:30? Home before midnight back in Portland.Contrary to all other climbs I've done, I was so focused on not screwing up the approach or chimneys that I had no idea what the total gain was, elevation of camp, how high Shuksan was, or what the mileage was. Humorously caught me off guard since I normally have these things committed. Climb was in great shape, had a blast. Escaped from the Huron. Hawkeye killed some bad folks. Had a brush with Magua at the base of the summit pyramid. Rapped 2 short spots on the chimneys more out of fun and being safe than feeling like it was required. First time climbing in the North Cascades, blown away by the beauty! We also managed a video that should be seen far and wide. Cross-posted by user MajorMajor as TR here as well. Gear Notes: 30m rope 1 ax (brought 2nd tools but did not need) 1 picket each crampons trail runners with strap-on crampons woulda been nice Approach Notes: just pay attention. do your research ahead of time. Don't do it in the dark if you've never been there. Quote
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