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[TR] Bugaboos - Pigeon/Bugaboo/Crescent Spires - 8/7/2012


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Trip: Bugaboos - Pigeon/Bugaboo/Crescent Spires -


Date: 8/7/2012


Trip Report:

Conditions update on the Bugs.....We were up there from 8/2-8/7 and climbed several routes:

Pigeon Spire West Ridge

Bugaboo Spire Kain Route

Rest day

Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge

Crescent Spire Ears Between

All routes were snow/ice free and approaches were fast. The hike from Applebee Dome to Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col was taking about an hour, with most folks opting to go without crampons. A couple of cracks were rapidly opening up on that approach. Temps were warm that week were around 17C/63F.


We actually ended up climbing the NE Ridge in t-shirts all day from 4:30am til 2:30pm back at camp. People had warned us of cold temps the week before, when everyone was climbing in their Das Parkas!

A few pics to get the stoke going.....

West Ridge of Pigeon


NE Ridge of Bugaboo


5.6 pitch on the Kain Route


Following the first pitch on the NE Ridge


Soaking it in!


Throwing the ropes to rap down the Kain Route


Rapping down from Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col



Approach Notes:

Crampons might be more helpful as things melt out quickly and the approach routes change. Ice axe was nice for the way down the col in slushy afternoon snow.

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