Mt. Stuart Northside Approach/Deproach Update

[telemarker]

Kyle and I went back to Stuart this past weekend, climbing the CNR and Sherpa with a bivi. Here's our conclusions on approaching Mt. Stuart from the north (stuart lake TH):

 

**the Mountaineers creek trail is in great shape, with windfall affecting only a small portion of it;

**the north side approach to the base of the north ridge was an hour faster for us than the Ingalls approach, with much less elevation gain/loss;

**we climbed Sherpa's W. Ridge, then stayed pretty much on the ridge crest all the way to Sherpa/Argonaut Col. There was one section on the ridge east of Sherpa where we climbed around on the north side briefly, but it was pretty obvious where to go;

**the most we dropped south of the crest was 200' or so, near the very end close to S/A col.

**the former faint trail at the bottom of Sherpa/Argonaut col is obliterated with downfall. We found it was best to stay skier's left of the creek and slide alder. But still rough going with all the downfall.

**The Mtnrs creek trail is very easy to find once you reach the junction of the two creeks. Reverse your approach from here back to the main trail. The trail is well cairned the close you get to the Stuart Lake super hiway.

 

Is the north side approach better than the Ingalls? That's up for debate. If the deproach weren't so involved, it definitely would be (assuming late season and the sherpa glacier is out). If you want to include a summit of Sherpa and tons of 4th and mid 5th climbing along a scenic but dry ridge crest, then it beats the Crapcadian hands down. Unless your last name is Hirst or Martin plan on a bivi somewhere along the crest. There are some fine spots!

Edited August 6, 2012 by telemarker

[Dane]

Great info, thanks! How long does it take to get from the base of the Ridge on the n side to the typical N ridge approach gully farther up the hill?

 

I would think if you are only doing the upper ridge there is less over all gain from the Ingalls side and less mileage. Not true?

 

Lets not factor in the decent...just car to summit.

[telemarker]

Great info, thanks! How long does it take to get from the base of the Ridge on the n side to the typical N ridge approach gully farther up the hill?

 

I would think if you are only doing the upper ridge there is less over all gain from the Ingalls side and less mileage. Not true?

 

Lets not factor in the decent...just car to summit.

 

A north side approach to access the half ridge gully entrance is most likely easier if approached by hiking all the way around stuart lake then up to the glacier. But if I were only climbing the half ridge, I would probably use the Ingalls approach.