ColinB Posted July 25, 2012 Posted July 25, 2012 Trip: Mt Stuart - Girth Pillar Date: 7/22/2012 Trip Report: On Sunday (7/22) Nate F. and I climbed the Girth Pillar via the Ice Cliff Glacier from our camp at the bottom of the Sherpa Glacier. We started up the Ice Cliff at 3:15 and topped out 12 hrs later. On the Ice Cliff, things were more active than we had expected. A fair bit of rock/ice fall at night though the tongue of ice & snow to the left seem to be more sheltered. We pitched out three sections on the Ice Cliff as we only had one tool each but it seemed to be melting out pretty significantly. Neat ice features gave pretty good handholds on the steeper parts and the lack of daylight added to the alpine charm. The bergschrund at 8k was entirely open and overhanging, so we downclimbed into the moat to the climbers' right, switched over to rock shoes and climbed a pitch of 5.8/5.9 to reach the ramp. Three+ 70 m pitches got us from the moat to the base of the pillar. Nate lead up the pillar mostly free and I jugged up after him (as I suck and didn't want to waste time flailing around). The rock on the pillar is solid and the line damn impressive. That said, there's definitely plenty of loose rock sitting around on top of the pillar and we ended up with only 40 m of rope to finish the route with due to a couple of rockfall inflicted core shots. Six or so 40 m pitches got us up to the false summit about 12 hrs after we started up the Ice Cliff Glacier. We found the entrance to the Sherpa Glacier descent without too much trouble (hint: traverse over left instead of following the tracks down the couloir) and found sloppy conditions. Feeling tired from the day, I took my time downclimbing and was back at the tent 3 hours after topping out. Right now the bergschrund on the Sherpa is open but there is a narrow snow fin on the extreme climbers' right that can be downclimbed so you don't have to rappel. Back in the tent, we greedily slurped down some water, packed up, and punished our feet on the walk back to the car. An epic rainstorm on the drive back made us feel lucky to have gotten this route in during the short window we had this weekend. All in all, the route was a big interesting combination of very different alpine skills. Carrying boots, crampons, and tools up and over made the followers' life harder but that's alpine climbing, no? Nate leading out of the moat and up to the ramp. Myself jugging up the pillar with the Ice Cliff Glacier far below. Nate finishing up the top of the pillar. Gear Notes: Windshirts and neutrinos were the key to sending. One sacrificial neutrino was left on the Girth for you booty bandits. Doubles to #2 (bring extra #2s if you want to free the pillar!), one #3, two 13 cm screws, two pickets, one tool each, boots, crampons. 9.2 mm lead line and a 7.5 mm tag line (for hauling on the pillar). 45L pack for the follower, 20L pack for the leader. Approach Notes: Up the creek, follow the cairns. Quote
wayne Posted July 25, 2012 Posted July 25, 2012 Thats great Guys. Nice job! Glad we have the Stuart Range. Quote
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