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Posted

Trip: Ingalls - East Ridge

 

Date: 7/7/2012

 

Trip Report:

The weatherman predicted a hot one and none of us wanted to be hiking out in the dark so we started early at met at the P&R at I-405 Exit 22 at 4am.

 

We arrived at the TH in 2.5 hours and were on the trail by 6:45am. At 0.4 miles down the trail where trail 1390 splits from trail1394 there was snow over the trail and we spent about 10 minutes exploring an avalanche chute. The sign says turn right for 1390 but the trail must shoot left just after that because we found the trail to the left after our exploration of the avalanche chute. The rest of the hike in was straight forward and there are several boot back lines in the snow to the top of the ridge. We saw quite a few adult and baby goats along the way that were just minding their own business.

 

After filtering some water and getting a bite to eat we started climbing at about 11:15am. There are several spots with find running water as you get closer to the base of the climb after the ridge. The lake was still mostly frozen over but there were some melted spots to get water there too. The climb was very straight forward and I found the route description on SummitPost.org very helpful: http://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge/165772

 

Pitch 3-5 ended up as pitch 3-6 for us. At the end of pitch 4 (ended due to rope drag and rope length) we were about 100 feet from the bottom of the crux section. We chose to pitch out the 100 foot section to just below the crux to avoid rope drag during the crux.

 

We arrived on the summit at about 4pm, enjoyed the scenery for about 15 minutes and were off rappel at about 5:30pm after 2 double rope rappels. There was still snow over the first pitch of the south ridge route.

 

We arrived back at the trailhead at about 7:30pm, had dinner in Cle Elum and ended up back at the P&R around 10:45pm.

 

Timeline:

 

4 am - P&R at I-405 Exit 22

6:30am - Arrive at trailhead

6:45am - On the trail

11:15 am - Started Climbing 1st Pitch

4 pm - Summit

5:30 pm - Off Rappel

7:30 pm - Back at trailhead

 

Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/114679850268298816212/IngallsERidge#

 

Gear Notes:

I agree with everyone else’s comments on a small rack up to 2 inches and a #4 for the crux

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Nice TR. Congrats. I have climbed it twice and both times I was able to protect the crux very well with a #2.

 

I agree that there are probably several pieces that will work in that crack. #4 is not essential, but easy to just throw in there.

Posted
Nice TR. Congrats. I have climbed it twice and both times I was able to protect the crux very well with a #2.

 

I agree that there are probably several pieces that will work in that crack. #4 is not essential, but easy to just throw in there.

 

For a new tenative leader the #4 effectively puts you on top rope for the move. Not necesary but nice.

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