[TR] Sandy Headwall - Mt. Hood - 7/4/2012

[mrkittles13]

Trip: Sandy Headwall - Mt. Hood -

 

Date: 7/4/2012

 

Trip Report:

Having just spent 4 days climbing in Leavenworth, I somehow convinced my wife to drive from the Oregon Coast (where we live) to Timberline after work on Tuesday to do a one-day climb of the Sandy Glacier Headwall. Neither of us had done it before, but thought we'd give it a go, and then ski from the top.

 

We went car-to-car in 7 hours, and were back to enjoy the July 4th lunchtime fiestas at Timberline. We encountered very icy but fast conditions throughout the entire climb. There was ice up to 70 degrees at certain spots, with the majority of the climb more around 50 degrees. We did not feel that a rope was necessary; even if you wanted to rope up, the rotten ice that comprises the vast majority of the route will not take pro well. Overall, the route is altogether more difficult and committing than the Leuthold or (of course) the Hogsback, but is in great shape right now!

 

We arrived at the Timberline parking lot around 9pm on Tuesday and were greeted with pretty chilly conditions. We had planned on hanging out in our lounge chairs, drinking a beer, and watching the sunset/moonrise, but, alas, we were happy to be in our sleeping bags soon after we arrived.

 

The next day, we slept in a bit and left the parking lot at 5am. A generic two hour climb/walk deposited us at Illumination Saddle at 7am. We had planned on skinning/skiing all of the way to the Sandy Glacier Headwall, but all we found was bulletproof ice. Skinning was not to be and skiing down from I-Saddle was probably dangerous. Besides, we had our crampons on already.

 

The Reid Glacier is cruiser, and the Leuthold Couloir looks to be in pretty good shape. This weekend should be a good time to climb, but it probably goes without saying that you'll have to deal with the (small) ice missiles that tend to shower many of Hood's routes.

 

The high traverse over Yokum Ridge at around 8,600 ft goes easily, as long as you aren't afraid of steep ice with cliffs below and are able to negotiate the moat/bergschrund to get onto the Sandy Glacier. The traverse across the Sandy Glacier was also uneventful. We were at the bottom of the Sandy Headwall at 8:30-ish.

 

We were able to walk the lower bowl most of the way. After about 1000 feet, the pitch increased quite dramatically (which you can't really tell from the bottom) and we more-or-less front pointed through bulbous rotten ice the rest of the way. We summitted around 11am, hung out a bit, then strapped on our skis and were back to the car by noon.

 

And, just in case you're like me and are thinking of skiing the Sandy Headwall sometime soon: don't. You will die. Trust me on this.

 

However, a much better idea is linking the Sandy Headwall with one of the various routes on the North Face to the summit. We would have done that, but didn't know it would be so easy to do (so we didn't bring the necessary gear).

 

Required gear: two ice tools, crampons, helmet.

 

Leuthold Couloir, as of July 4, 2012. Looks pretty good!

 

Taylor in some rocks, partway over the Yokum ridge:

 

Descending the moat/bergschrund:

 

Taylor at the bottom of the Sandy Headwall:

 

Michael halfway up the Headwall (that stuff is straight crap-ice!):

 

Michael in the upper bowl:

 

Taylor pulling out at the top of the Headwall:

 

The North Face - looks good!

 

Michael on the summit ridge:

 

Back at the car in time for lunch!

 

Gear Notes:

Required gear: two ice tools, crampons, helmet. Could bring some pro and rope, but that would probably just slow you down and not decrease risk much given the rotten rock and ice.

[YocumRidge]

Nice, nice, nice!

Light and fast.

 

Yocum Ridge looks well frozen in place and is asking to be climbed. In July. Who would have thought?

[Sanchez]

Wow you guys are hard core... my wife refuses to climb anything with me that hiking boots won't cover. Nice work finding a soul-mate and badass climbing partner all in one!

[Jimmy J]

Very nice!