howiecrusher Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Trip: Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier Date: 6/28/2012 Trip Report: Trip Dates: 6/27/12 - 6/30/12 People: Matt, Sasha, Greg, Cal, and myself (Mike) Summary: Wednesday 6/27 - Slow Ferry from Chelan to Lucern, bus to Holden - Hiked to Holden Pass (~4hrs) Thursday 6/28 - 5am Moving from Pass - 11:45am on Summit - 7:10pm back at Pass Friday 6/29 - 7am 4 out of 5 climbed Martin (i wussed out) - ~3pm all climbers returned from Martin - 4pm Left Holden Pass - 6pm hit Holden Campsite. Setup and walked to Holden for water/toilets by 7pm. Saturday 6/30 - Was able to switch from a sunday ferry to saturday ferry and get out a day early! Details: There was a lot of snow on route. We hit snow a little below Holden Lake. The lake was mostly snow covered on Wednesday and was mostly thawed by Friday. Alder and rock up to Holden pass was no issue since it was all under snow. Lake and it's surroundings will probably be snow free in the next couple weeks. We were able to find a snow route from Holden Pass all the way up to the Mary Green Glacier. I doubt this will be possible for any weekend after our trip. The waterfalls are melting away fast and there were some moats starting to show. The first moat up the last 1000' was easily crossed on the far climber's right on some snow/rock. We then were able to ascend steep snow up a few more hundred feet. About 2/3 of the way we had to leave snow and scramble some easy-ish rock with crampons (crampons on slabs suck!). We hit the ridge and setup a fix line to the summit for safety. We were roped up the entire way and used rappel slings for running belays. Some fixed belays were done mid-route in questionable areas. 5 double rope rappels were performed to get us to about 100' above the first moat. We down climbed from there, setting two pickets for a running belay on steep stuff. Overall the route was in great shape for us. I can't say it'll be great next weekend. It was melting pretty fast and some new difficulties looked to be forming (moats were opening up). We were also the first group of the year! Boo Ya! Holden Lake and route up to Pass on Wednesday: Roping up for the start of glacier: On glacier. It was pretty filled in: Best picture of the technical route I got...follow the snow blobs: The only area were we really had to climb rock: Steep and soft snow finger after rock. Leads to ridge: Sasha nailing his summit pose. Cal oblivious to it: One of our raps: Holden Lake and pass on Friday when we left...lots of melt!: Edited July 2, 2012 by howiecrusher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeShy Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Great work guys! That's a ton more snow than when I was up there a few years back at this time. I'm glad Sasha kept it classy on the summit! Oh don't worry about Martin, you can come back and climb it with me since I wimped on my first attempt too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin27 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Sweet trip. Looks like the weather was actually pretty good for you guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.