Golden Ears Ice

[Dru]

Hiked up into the Blanshard peak-Edge cirque (Evans Creek) . All waterfalls were flowing, only a few small icicles. So we climbed an endlessly long snow gully up to the ridge crest north of Blanshard then headed for Edge. Maybe 600m of mostly 40 degree snow with steps to 55 or so. Great conditions - perfect thick neve and crust made great "shnice" for pick placements. The warm then freeze cycle sure did its job.

Turned back about 100m from summit of Edge when confronted with a steep notch and had left gear back at the col to speed things up. also we were starting to get overdue cause they lock the gate at 5:30 and it was 2:00. We eventually made it out at 5:25 with the ranger standing by the gate looking at his watch.

So ice may not be in but subalpine snow conditions are highly pwerfect for climbing. Looks like about 4 feet of low elevation snow has melted down in the past two weeks.

[Thomas]

Do you know if the 'Big' gully in the North west corner of the cirque has been climbed? It leads up to a notch in the summit ridge of Edge. I've been up there a number of times over the years but it has never been 'in'. "WE" were in there last weekend and the gully had a waterfall that came down over overhanging rock, so it would be hard ice if it froze, but I think this could be bypassed on rock on the east side.

"We" went up the gully to the South of Blanshard to scope out the conditions and there was lots of smears there from 2-4+. Unfortunately we were a week late and had to dodge ice bombs due to the warm temps.

[Dru]

There are maybe 20 waterfalls in that cirque that have allegedly never been climbed but formation remains rare. The big gully had no ice whatsoever. It looks real good though, if it were ever to form. The WI2+ falls on the approach up Evans Creek has ben climbed (see Serl/Kay guide) and it is possible that a few routes in that bowl may have been done but not reported since then.