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[TR] Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier 5/18/2012

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Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier


Date: 5/18/2012


Trip Report:

Climbed the kautz Wednesday with two friends from Shasta. We approached the route over the nisqually and Wilson glaciers which are both easily passed right now. Camped at ~9500' left of the turtle. Snow conditions were awful for the approach, post holed to boot tops the whole way in and out; things did firm up nicely for our climb. The 11200' notch is a 20' scramble in current conditions with a ratty fixed line (maybe it'll get replaced sometime). Ice chute was snowier than I hoped, only about 50m of moderate angle ice. Strong winds the whole climb with constant winds about 45-50mph on top; we got down just as a fat lenticular settled on the summit. Really wish that shasta wasn't such a long drive, as we went down to do lib ridge, not knowing that the road was still closed at paradise...maybe if we get time off from avi gulch in the next couple weeks.



Gear Notes:

Screws, 2nd tool, glacier kit.


Approach Notes:

Bring flotation if things stay warm.

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