Ancient Art - Stolen Chimney

[hakioawa]

Anyone climbed it?

If you take the exposure factor out of it, how hard is is? Would you take a newbie up it? We're going to do Owl Rock first and see how it goes.

 

She's climbing well, but never done multi-pitch. Kinda concerns me.

[wayne]

As long as the climber is comfortable throughout the variety of terrains on that route. It has a little of everything, ,except thinner cracks maybe. It is one of the easier towers, that doesnt say much though.I think the grade is fair. Would have to be a very stoked Newb. i shot an overexposed video.

So many parties get up it, crowding is an issue.

[layton]

It's one of the best towers and one of the easiest. I've taken a newb wicked scared up heights up it (no not you Dr Denninghoff).

The 5.11 section is short and is just a bunch of closely spaced bolts/pins you can just yard up, however it is just about the easiest 5.11a pitch in the universe so try and free it.

The 2nd pitch is a very fun and safe 5.7 crack inside a chimney. Then another easily pull-able 5.10+ 2 moves to the "diving board". From there, the follower would be on top rope to summit.

 

The route takes no time at all with a short approach right off the road. But it is sickeningly popular, even more so after the citibank commercial

[nels0891]

Most guide books even have it at like .10, which in my opinion is a little more accurate than .11. I did the climb in March, and brought my two roommates that were new to multipitch climbing. They were just fine with the difficulty, as all of the remotely hard sections all have bolts within arms reach (as mentioned by Layton). I found that the crowds were the only concerning part of the climb... I couldnt believe how many people followed up right behind us.

 

Fortunately, the ledge before catwalk section is huge and can comfortably fit quite a few people. I would agree... now that the commercial came out it is even more popular than ever, so start early to beat the crowds.

 

The summit is pretty memorable though, highly recommend it.

[EastCoastBastard]

I would say it's fair at 5.10 - the 5.11 "crux" is pretty easy and well-protected. I found the corkscrew to be fucking scary. It was very windy the day we did it and it felt like the whole thing was swaying back and forth. I decided not to climb the corkscrew that day. For a newbie, a situation like that would be terrifying I think.

I can't say i'd reccomend going to fisher towers - the rock is terrible.

[RaisedByPikas]

Ancient Art was my second multi pitch climb with the first being the day before, both following. The exposure is the definitely the crux for anyone that can climb 5.8. It can also be a bit awkward getting from the catwalk onto the spiral part. I did the beached whale thing. If she is stoked you shouldn't have any problems. And if you have a 70m rope you can combine the first two pitches.

Edited April 18, 2012 by RaisedByPikas

[nels0891]

It can also be a bit awkward getting from the catwalk onto the spiral part. I did the beached whale thing.

 

Agreed. I also found, because im not very tall, that it was easier to go around the diving board underneath it to the left. The whole beached whale thing freaked me out because there isnt any pro until you get up onto it.