[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 2/11/2012

[mzvarner]

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

 

Date: 2/11/2012

 

Trip Report:

Had an exciting trip up the NE Buttress this past weekend. The route is in climbable condition, but protection is horrible at best.

 

My partner took the first two pitches. The first involved a few steep moves with solid sticks in alpine ice and decent rock pro. He gained the snow couloir and made it to the trees with out a hitch. I quickly followed and he was off again on pitch two.

 

Pitch two was easy snow scrambling to a rock outcropping with good pro. Again, i moved quickly to the anchor, grabbed the gear and began my lead block.

 

The first two pieces were great right off the anchor and about 20 feet above. Then things got exciting. I attempted to place a picket in the snowfield but managed to slam it in by hand...great useless. I didnt worry too much yet because, even though the terrain was steep and exposed, the snow made for great sticks and kicks. I continued up to a rock outcropping another 40ish feet above hoping to find good pro. No luck. the rock was brittle and crackless. All the gear (cams, nuts, and pitons) were either to big or too small...now i began to worry.

 

After yelling the situation to my partner I decided I had enough rope to make it to the 8 foot ice step where a v-thread and screws would be welcome. Upon arrival, the screws went in one inch before i spun into air. FUCK!

 

After more yelling of the situation, we decided to do a running belay and as soon as I could get pro I would set up a belay. So another 40-50 feet up I again managed to place a picket by hand. I began to belay hear praying that there my partner did not slip because we were now a stones throw from the summit.

 

Obviously there was no slip and things went off with out a hitch after that. I was rather humbled by the events though in light of the death of three climbers this weekend. I realized how close to a serious situation I was and how unacceptable it was.

 

Enjoy the pics

https://picasaweb.google.com/mzvarner/ChairPeakNEButtress

 

Gear Notes:

Take what you want, its going to be mental pro anyways.

 

Approach Notes:

Less than 2 miles but lots of elevation gain!

[escapetherock]

what is the story with the climber's death? haven't heard anything.

[mzvarner]

Two big name Norwegians died this weekend along with an experienced climber from Oregon who died decending mount hood.