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jspitzer

[TR] Canyonlands National Park - Moses, Standing Rock, Washer Woman 11/1/2011

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Trip: Canyonlands National Park - Moses, Standing Rock, Washer Woman

 

Date: 11/1/2011

 

Trip Report:

I got back earlier this week from climbing towers in Canyonlands National Park. There's a lot of different information out there about these towers. Thought I would summarize my trip, which I would highly recommend! Photos and more info can be found at snowrockandiceadventures.com

 

Moses: Primrose Dihedrals IV 5.11

The Mineral Bottom road is full fixed and you can drive any type of vehicle down that road. Were the road splits and goes up Taylor Canyon (5miles) you need a 4 wheel drive, high clearance vehicle to reach the trailhead. From the trailhead follow trail to base of route.

 

Pitch 1: 5.11+ or 5.8 scary traverse. 100ft Pick your poison. Fixed Anchor

Pitch 2: 5.10+, climb splitter crack through several small roofs, for the crux keep an extra .75 cam which is near the top of that pitch. 130ft Gear Anchor 2-3"cams

Pitch 3: 5.10, start by down climbing 5.8 then traverse 10ft and climb face and crack to next ledge. 40ft Fixed Anchor

Pitch 4: 5.10+, amazing hands to wide hands to fist! awesome pitch. 120ft. Fixed Anchor

Pitch 5: 5.11, classic "Ear" lie-back pitch. We bailed due to rain.

 

Retreat was easy with fixed anchors

Washer Woman: In Search of Suds III 5.10+

Approach by driving down Shafer Trail Road to access White Rim Road. Camped at Airport Campground. 1h30mins from ranger station. Highly recommend 4 wheel drive vehicle. From campground drive another 20mins to Buck Canyon or until you see Washer Woman. There is a couple cairns marking where to park and follow the path to the base of the climb 1hr hike.

 

Pitch 1: 5.10, hands and fists in a corner system. 120ft. Fixed Anchors

Pitch 2: 5.9+, climb through the "eye" and up chimney to wide hands to ledge. awkward moving pulling onto belay ledge. 100ft. Fixed Anchors

Pitch 3: 5.10+, climb crack system to crest of tower. 60ft. gear anchor 1-2"

Pitch 4: 5.9, traverse 4th class ledge system to summit block. Fixed anchor below summit block

Pitch 5: 5.10+, bolted summit block. Fixed anchor on summit

 

Descent: This is the more exciting part. From Pitch 4, make a double rope rappel over the arch of Washer Woman. Very exposed and free hanging getting into the rappel. Follow rest of the anchors down.

 

Standing Rock (aka Totem Pole): Kor Route 5.11

We spend another night at the Airport Campground, then got up early in the morning and drove additional hour and half to Monument Basin. There is a fixed rope that we rappelled to access Monument Basin. The fixed rope is located 300yards away from the road in a gully with two bolts. Park in wash marked with a cairn when the road gets close to the rim and Standing Rock is directly to the south. Walk 300 yards west along the rim and look for the second gully marked with a large cairn for the fixed rope. Descend to Monument Basin and walk to base of standing rock. (good beta on mountainproject.com)

 

Pitch 1: 5.10, climb up the crack and traverse below the roof. 120ft fixed anchor

Pitch 2: 5.10+, traverse 20ft and climb up loose crack and flakes passed and old hanging anchor to ledge with 5 fixed pins. 130ft.

Pitch 3: 5.11 or 5.10 C1. The 5.11 section felt pretty hard maybe there are some hold missing, anyways follow up and right to the summit

 

Descent: Rappel to pitch 1, then rappel to ground, with two 60m ropes.

 

 

More photo's on my blog snowrockandiceadventures.com

 

 

P10207961.JPG Moses Tower

 

P10209161.JPG Standing Rock

 

IMG_3840.JPG Jonathon leading pitch 4 Primrose Dihedrals

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard desert tower rack: Lots of cams, off-set nuts, two ropes, beers, and extra gas.

 

Approach Notes:

Get over night camping permit at Island-in-the-Sky Ranger station if camping in park. $150 fine for illegal camping.

Edited by jspitzer

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Nice. We climbed Standing Rock and Monster Tower a few weeks ago. PD on Moses looks awesome but we heard two of the bolts are missing on the .11 off-width. Definitly want to go back for Washer Woman.

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Yeah, Moster Tower is on my list. Did you do the North Ridge or the Kor? Looks loose from Washer Woman

 

Cheers

 

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no it's not loose, the 2nd to last pitch is a bit "grungy" but nothing bad considering it's the easiest pict on the climb.

what is loose is traversing in from the notch. be VERY careful and DONT TOUCH ANYTHING. the actual climbing pitches are solid and a killer summit. way short route, goes quick. The "1st" pitch is way contrived, way out of character with the route, and makes it more difficult to get to, although rapping off makes it easier if your stuff is at the base there.

 

nice job on standing rock. that 2nd pitch started to fry my brain towards the top.

 

anyone want to do moses with me?

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