[TR] Ingall's North Peak - South Ridge 10/26/2011

[Nate J]

Trip: Ingall's North Peak - South Ridge

 

Date: 10/26/2011

 

Trip Report:

Ingall's North Peak South Ridge 10/23/11

 

Cooking dinner in the rain is my least favorite thing. Unavoidable at the Ingall's Lake trailhead Saturday eve, not a good sign for a climb the next day. Brought my partner, Kit, through a climbing refresher at sunny Vantage Saturday afternoon. Now for some nourishment, beer, and sleep, sounds nice except for the rain. Woke at midnight to relieve some of that beer, and the stars were out! My intuition said the climb was in the bag.

 

9am we're packed and on the trail. Gorgeous day, getting windier toward Ingall's pass. Passed some soaked but happy backpackers drying out by the lake. Scrambled up the slabs, eyeing out the best route among snow covered talus. Roped up around 1215 just on the back side of Beckey's "dog tooth". Cool and windy hear, so I dawned my puffy, hat, and gloves. Lead out that first slab and traversed the top of the gully to the first belay station- a boulder slung with webbing. The second pitch was a the real rock climbing of the whole bit- great to be moving in the sunshine and protected from the prevailing west wind- the gloves came off. Third pitch was short, built an anchor in the rock just behind and below the existing 3 bolts to protect a pull towards Kit- tied into my anchor and the bolts. Somewhere along the line here I scraped up my knuckles good and was getting blood on gear, pants, jacket. 315 we pitched out the cold, windy summit scramble for fun and keep the risk super low.

 

The descent was good, but we were getting tired and ready to be off the rock. We rappelled the climbing route. First rap was straight forward. The second rap left me at the end of our 60m rope about 15ft above the next rappel station ledge. I plugged some gear and belayed Kit while he downclimbed the few feet and then I downclimbed the same. This all was stressful. It was getting late and the cold wind wasn't fun anymore. A full third rap put us in the gully west of the dog's tooth. Terra firma- 415. The pressure was off and life was good again. Absolutely stunning alpenglow on Stuart while we hiked out to Ingall's pass.We got about halfway down from the pass before switching on the headlamps. Brew's and burgers in Cle Elum rounded out a great late-season alpine climb!

[rob]

Hmm, I've rapped the south ridge with a 50m rope without any trouble. I remember rapping down to the left (climber's right) and then rapping off some mank between boulders or something to the next station? Anyway, sounds like you guys figured it out. Cheers!