jspitzer Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 (edited) Last week, we climbed Heaven's Gate on the upper wall. I would highly recommend this route! It follows an amazing feature of texture rock up high. Pitch 1 (5.10c): Lamplighter, it's a steep looking wide chimney with good cracks in the back. There are two distinct crux's on this pitch. The first crux is exiting the chimney which is protected by a bolt. Second crux is after the chimney climbing the steep face on the right (2 bolts). Recommend not to belay at first anchor head up and right (5.8) 20ft to second anchor. This pitch is Index 5.10! Pitch 2 (5.11a): Bolted, crux is at second bolt. Then great steep face climbing to the anchor. Pitch 3 (5.10+): Bolted, shorter pitch with easier climbing Pitch 4 (5.11b): Bolted, crux is climbing through the two roofs. The bolts are perfectly placed. An excellent pitch. Gear: 15 draws. Single set of cams to #3 BD with doubles in .4 and .75 for the first pitch. We left the rack at the top of the Lamplighter Pitch. For more info check out snowrockandiceadventures and racheligreenberg Edited October 5, 2011 by jspitzer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Yeah, great climb! Although I kind of felt the first pitch was the crux for me, hehehe, classic Index. It's a great route and you can leave all your trad gear at the first belay. Rap with a 70. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Sweet!!! Got to try this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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