Using a half rope as a single rope in the alpine?

[Laughingman]

For many of the worlds top alpinist it seems common to use a single double rope (8.0-8.6)mm instead of a fully rated single rope. How "safe" is this system for moderate ice and alpine climbs and ridges with little rock (like the north ridge of Baker).

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 23, 2011 by Laughingman

[Dannible]

I doubt many people would call it safe; for that you would use a good single rope. That said, it's something that I've done a lot. I do it sometimes while roped soloing, because I try to only solo things that I don't plan on falling off of, and on long moderate routes with a partner, mostly so the second can relax. I believe all half ropes are rated to hold a lead fall in normal conditions (not running over sharp edges for example) but really this should only be done in places where the leader is not going to fall. It's just not fun to test these things. On harder routes pull on gear and rest to avoid falling if it comes down to it. They make nice light single ropes as skinny as 8.9 that will give you a lot more peace of mind. A better option might be to fold that half rope in half and simul climb (because you aren't going to fall anyway, right?) or do 30 meter leads. A single strand of skinny rope isn't great for glacier travel because they can be harder to prussic on and I've heard that crevasse rescue can put a lot of force on the rope.

[genepires]

your biggest problem with double lines is the cutting over edges. Sounds like your objectives are pretty safe from this.

 

The forces on ropes due to falls are a lot less in the alpine than vertical rock climbing. Sliding (assuming that climber is trying to stop/self arrest) and colliding with objects will reduce the impact onto the rope.

 

With that in mind, I use the half rope in one strand for low impact situations and when it gets steep, tie into both ends for one climber and at the half way for the other climber, and make it 30m pitches till the angle eases back.

 

one strand of skinny rope is a great line for glacier travel. The biggest danger of cutting this rope is during the stage where you clear rope from cutting into the snow. The line under tension is more likely to be cut by a shovel or axe if you are using these. I use the heals of my feet to clear away the snow so there is no chance of cutting the rope.

 

Nothing we do is "safe". We try to make it safe enough so that we can move fast enough through the anticipated risk. There is a full range of safety that we fluctuate through and hopefully have the right amount of safety at the time if actually needing it.

[its MR.gumby 2u]

alpine moderate pretty much defines me. i generally try to avoid situations that look like they could result in taking a whipper, although i've taken my share of falls. however, "falls" on straight-forward alpine routes is most usually a misnomer. slide and tumble is more like it. (or more amusingly, fall through cornice & tumble while thrashing with ax). as long as you don't take what amounts to a fall on rock over sharp edge or inadvertently chop your rope while thrashing with ax, you should be good to go. my current alpine rope, which caught a short fall last spring, is (i think) 8.6; my previous was maybe 8.2.

 

however, from a legal point of view,i certainly wouldn't recommend using a skinny rope. in fact, you'd have to be mentally incompetent to do so. i personally recommend using an 11mm rope in all instances.

[Coldfinger]

Well there are 9.2mm skinny ropes that are also double rope rated. Personally think single ropes are easier and thus safer.