Hayley Sierra Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 Trip: A tour of WA climbing - Ruth, Dumbell, and Ingalls (south ridge) Date: 9/2/2011 Trip Report: A Tour of Washington Climbing 1) Snow/glacier climb : Ruth Mountain 2) Scramble : Dumbell Mountain 3) Alpine rock : Ingalls South Ridge With a 2 week vacation to my home state of Washington (and a beautiful weather forecast), I wanted to show my boyfriend (and new climbing protégé) what the cascades have to offer. Fresh off the plane from Baltimore (and with a set of 4 new tires acquired during an emergency stop that morning), we headed to the Hannegan Pass trailhead, where Martin would get his first taste of snow/glacier travel on Ruth Mountain. Ruth Mountain The springtime wildflowers were indeed in full bloom as we headed down the trail at noon. It was virtually snow free to just below Hannegan Pass, with lots of opportunities for photography. The traverse around the subsidiary peak (5963’) was snow covered, with a short run-out before rocky cliffs, so an ice axe came in handy. A little while longer, we were standing on the summit (7115’), enjoying the gorgeous views of Shuksan and Baker. With the late start time (noon), we had to get moving back to the pass, but got a nice shot of Ruth in the sunset. Fortunately, the mellow Hannegan Pass trail was easy to follow by headlamp. Dumbell Mountain In just a couple days we found ourselves back in the Cascades, this time with plans to climb Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains, located at the head of the Phelps Creek basin. With word of ferocious bugs in Spider Meadows, we opted to camp high in the upper heather meadows, just beneath Dumbell’s false summits. We chose to follow a waterfall/snow/rock filled gulley to the upper basin, alternating between snowfields and heather slopes. (Spider meadows) (taken on the descent) It made for a long journey with overnight packs, but the views were well worth it. We awoke early the next morning for our summit day, moving at 4:45 am toward the summit (we were hoping to get back early for a welcome BBQ in Seattle). We bypassed the false summits on the right, continuing toward the Dumbell-Greenwood saddle. Here the route came into view. We crossed steep snow to reach the first rocky ledges, then even steeper snow to gain the rocks that would take us to the summit ridge. I was starting to feel a little nervous here with a new climber, but Martin really impressed me with his slow, methodical movements and solid kick-steps. We chose an upper 4th class gully to gain the ridge, which also required careful hand/foot placements to avoid a fall. From the ridge, class 2-3 scrambling gets you to the summit, with rewarding 360 degree views of Washington’s peaks. Once we downclimbed back to the snow, I decided to traverse over to the Greenwood saddle and take a look at the infamous ledges, but with a tired partner and time running short, we decided to give that one a try on another day. Seeming to feel more confident with each step, we made quick time back to camp and continued the hike out. We were greeted in Seattle with friendly faces and plenty of BBQ pork (courtesy of Nathan and Val). Great way to reward ourselves after a weekend of climbing! Ingalls Peak With the goal of sampling all kinds of WA climbing, an alpine rock trip was definitely in order. With poor luck on the Encahntments permit lottery, Prusik peak was out. Therefore, we headed to the Teanaway area to climb the south ridge of Ingalls peak (which just happened to be my first alpine rock several years ago). We enjoyed the scenery and wildlife in the area as we hiked to Ingalls Lake and made camp. After a rest, we decided to go ahead and do the climb that afternoon, looking forward to an easy hike out the next day. We ascended snow and rocky slopes to the base of the route, and began climbing just after 5pm. I chose the right hand crack (5.6 variation) for the crux pitch, which Martin happily followed, enjoying some nice hand jams along the way. We arrived on the summit at 7pm, and were treated with an amazing sunset. A few quick rappels (happy to have my new 70m rope for that crux pitch), and we were back at the base of the route by dark. We were able to successfully link snowfields together for an easy descent (avoiding a possible twisted ankle on the rocks), and made it safely back to camp. A herd of goats woke us up the next morning for some more photography, and we had a pleasant hike back to the car. Thanks Martin for putting up with me these last couple weeks, and going along with all my climbing schemes so enthusiastically. You made the perfect climbing partner, and I hope there are many more trips to come! Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, rack of cams to 3 inches, 70m rope (Ingalls). Approach Notes: Trails are melting out fast! Quote
cfire Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 Good to see young folks like yerselfe's gettin' out Quote
pcg Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 Great trip report! What a lucky guy! Is that a Stephenson Warmlite tent? If so I have questions... Quote
iceaxe23 Posted September 3, 2011 Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) Great trip report!! A good partner can make or break a trip, and this looks like a great trip. Edited September 3, 2011 by iceaxe23 Quote
cascadesdj Posted September 3, 2011 Posted September 3, 2011 Nice pics. Sounds like a great time. Quote
Dan_Miller Posted September 3, 2011 Posted September 3, 2011 Great photo of your partner Martin and the Western Anemones gone to seed, or as some call them the Tina Turner, or Cousin It flowers. Quote
Lisa_D Posted September 5, 2011 Posted September 5, 2011 Awesome! You guys really packed it in. I want to see the Phelps Creek area. Also, it was good to finally meet you! Quote
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