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Bugaboos


rig

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm driving down from Alaska to Seattle and was hoping to hit up the Bugs for the first time. I should be there by Sunday or Monday.

 

How were general conditions this year with the heavy snowpack? Obviously the routes will be free of seasonal ice/snow, but how were the glaciers/schrunds?

 

Weather permitting, we are hoping to spend about five days in early september enjoying the 'Boos.

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I was up there at the same time this year and the conditions were amazing. With the exception of our first day the weather was very warm. The Snowpatch-Bugaboo col was in great shape. No Ice and no shrund so you didn't have to pass underneath the rock fall zone. However, the col did melt out a bit over the week I spent there, so it is possible and most likely probable that the col is starting to break up.

 

We didn't rope up when we crossed the Bugaboo glacier to the base of the West ridge on Pigeon spire. Crevasses in general were not much of a problem. However, a snow storm blew through the first night we were there and the snow stayed on the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire for a few days making the "chimney" sections of that route a bit more tricky.

 

Edited by jordansahls
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