rig Posted August 20, 2011 Posted August 20, 2011 Went to the bugaboos during the first week of August. Climbed W. Ridge of Pigeon Spire, NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire and McTech Arete. Check out my blog for a full trip report and photos. Quote
Lisa_D Posted August 20, 2011 Posted August 20, 2011 Fun trip! The col looks like it's in much better shape than when I was there last August. I had a friend go to the Bugs around this time but he reported rime ice on many routes. It looks like you hit it just right! Quote
Kraken Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 I'm driving down from Alaska to Seattle and was hoping to hit up the Bugs for the first time. I should be there by Sunday or Monday. How were general conditions this year with the heavy snowpack? Obviously the routes will be free of seasonal ice/snow, but how were the glaciers/schrunds? Weather permitting, we are hoping to spend about five days in early september enjoying the 'Boos. Quote
jordansahls Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) I was up there at the same time this year and the conditions were amazing. With the exception of our first day the weather was very warm. The Snowpatch-Bugaboo col was in great shape. No Ice and no shrund so you didn't have to pass underneath the rock fall zone. However, the col did melt out a bit over the week I spent there, so it is possible and most likely probable that the col is starting to break up. We didn't rope up when we crossed the Bugaboo glacier to the base of the West ridge on Pigeon spire. Crevasses in general were not much of a problem. However, a snow storm blew through the first night we were there and the snow stayed on the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire for a few days making the "chimney" sections of that route a bit more tricky. Edited August 30, 2011 by jordansahls Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 MCR for recent conditions http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp Quote
Kraken Posted August 31, 2011 Posted August 31, 2011 thank you good sirs! It's rainy in Anchorage, so I'm hoping as I drive south (well, north THEN south) today the weather just gets better. Bugaboos or bust! Quote
G-spotter Posted August 31, 2011 Posted August 31, 2011 Looks like weather should improve Saturday, although a friend told me there was fresh snow down to about 2500m on the peaks around Golden this morning http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-34_metric_e.html Quote
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