British Climber Seeking Partner this weekend

[BritishRob]

I just moved to Seattle 3 weeks ago. I've climbed for over 10 years, and lived in Boulder, CO 2003-2006. I'd like to go climbing one day this weekend but don't know anyone here yet. I haven't climbed much for about a year because I was writing my PhD thesis, but I'm sure I could 2nd at 5.9 without too many problems. Trad climbing would be preferable, but I also enjoy sport climbing. Ideally, I'd start leading again too, but I've got no idea my lead grade is at the moment, 1st day out it could only be about 5.6-5.7 trad, but I'd hope to increase this again quickly. I haven't got a car yet, but I'll contribute to gas. I'd be keen to go every weekend in the future, and evenings to the climbing walls. Cheers.

[Josh Lewis]

I know how you feel, I don't have a car myself.

[BritishRob]

What are the options for car-less climbers in Seattle? Can you get public transport to any crags or boulders? Were you up for going climbing?

[Plaidman]

I have a hankering for some granite. So how about Index and Leavenworth? I could roll by on my way from Portland and we could see what we could get done. Can you climb all weekend and maybe Monday? I am dropping off my wife at the airport in Portland and then I am free. I can be in Seattle by 9 am and we can be at Index by 11.

Edited August 18, 2011 by Plaidman

[Josh Lewis]

I'll answer both questions.

 

First off transportation in this part of the world isn't the best if you know what I mean. There are 3 primary bus routes to the mountains.

1. North Bend

2. Gold Bar

3. Darrington

 

Two primary bus sites are http://commtrans.org/ and http://metro.kingcounty.gov/ (King County's Metro Site isn't that great) You can use the community transit site to calculate many routes even through it's out of bounds with there service.

 

Your best bet is the Darrington which has the Green Giant Buttress as seen here:

http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=152958&context_id=170929

 

Or Three O' Clock Rock:

http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=154192&context_id=170929

 

And some other ones in the Darrington area. Now my friend Mark tells me by far Index has some of the best rock climbing in the state. Unfortunately there is no bus to it, the method I devised was taking the bus to Gold Bar and then biking to Index which I've done before. It's around 8-9 miles.

 

As for North Bend, not sure there is much in that area, but there are hikes in the area.

 

Also there is a more expensive service named "Amtrak" which you could take the train from Seattle to Everett (or take the bus for that mini trip) and then from Everett to Leavenworth.

 

So when the bus doesn't give you what you want, I resort to two other options. 1. Hiking Friends 2. Sites like this one, I use sp and nwhikers for another source for finding partners.

 

So as for an answer to your other question I am currently living a catch 22 when it comes to climbing. I would really love to get into rock climbing which I've done a few rock climbs at the crags with a friend of mine. But the problem is that I do not know how to lead on rock, and my technical abilities are not quite 5.9. I can't get better because I cannot lead, and I cannot lead because I'm not a super technical climber. I been out in the alpine a lot these days and been wishing I knew how to place protection, I even have a mini rack which consists of 11 nuts and 2 hex's.

[Plaidman]

I guess I won't be going to Leavenworth.

 

Hwy 2 Closed

[jon]

Go over I-90 and Blewett Pass.

[BritishRob]

Hi, thanks for the invite, but I can't do monday, just started work and still not accrued any vacation. Also, saw that you can't make it due to Highway 2 being closed in a later post. Thanks again though!

[BritishRob]

Hi Josh, thanks for all that info, I've saved it for later use. Well, I know what you mean about climbing, it's an expensive sport and you need all the kit, and it takes time to build experience where you can feel comfortable climbing with people. When I lived in Boulder I used to take beginners out a lot who were friends from work or house mates and patiently build their skills on climbing trips, which meant I could do all the leading, which I enjoyed, but also was good for them to get into it. Ideally climbers want partners of similar ability to share leads, and push each other, but it's actually hard to find that instantly, and often requires some work, although it is attainable. I've never climbed super-hard, but I know the rope work so to speak, and you don't forget that once you've learnt it. I'd happily lead easy stuff, but on a climbing web forum you mostly expect die-hard climbers who climb 5.11+. I love having a pleasant day in the mountains, doing multi-pitch routes which aren't at my climbing limit. Certainly in the future, with access to a car I would be happy to take you out. I'm not concerned about someone who is less good than me, but I know if I go climbing with someone who wants to climb 5.12 and I'm struggling on a 5.10c or whatever, then that's not going to work for long. Anyway, let me know if you did get access to a vehicle. Cheers, Rob