KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Trip: Spickard - Southwest Ridge Date: 8/8/2011 Trip Report: Continuation of ... Note: yes, I see many of the photos have an annoying spot on them - probably water. :-/ We awoke early at Lake Ouzel on Monday, and, like the previous day, we enjoyed firm cramponing. We left our ropes and harnesses behind this time, and independently enjoyed nearly continuous snow with only a few short rock bands from camp to the col at 8000 feet leading to the southern aspect of Spickard. I chose a steeper line that afforded me some more fun high-dagger travel on 40 degree, bullet-proof slopes. A lower angle slope is also available with a traverse to climber's left. View of Redoubt on approach to Spickard: At 8000 feet we enjoyed the sun and some snacks then traversed under the south ridge. Here we saw several gullies were snow-filled, possibly all the way up to the summit ridge. We opted for the middle one. However, as we got higher up the snow became unpleasantly soft and shallow in places so we switched over to rock, and scrambled mostly easy class 2 and 3 until nearly the top. Here there was one stiffer section of class 4 that I and a partner took. The others went up a short, steep, soft snow section to ths summit ridge. Views of the pickets and other mountains were amazing from here - even better, IMO than from Redoubt. KK on the summit: We also got a look down onto the Silver Glacier route, where we could make out a bootpath from a recent party as well as a gnarly looking bergschrund. Silver Lake: Descent was hot and sloppy down to the col and a little better the rest of the way to camp. Today we rose early again to beat the heat and hiked out in about 5.5 hours wrapping up our 4 day trip. Then it was back to pothole hell, followed by civilization hell - including rush-hour traffic beginning in Everett. Did we have to leave? Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Another nice one, S! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaucho Argentino Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Sweeeeet, Buddy !! Both summits !! Who were your partners? Is DC one?! Planning to be up there on the week of the 22nd :-). Was weather OK all the time? Saw some clouds rolling in Monday/Tuesday... And BTW, what's the spot in the pics? :-)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Sweeeeet, Buddy !! Both summits !! Who were your partners? Is DC one?! Planning to be up there on the week of the 22nd :-). Was weather OK all the time? Saw some clouds rolling in Monday/Tuesday... And BTW, what's the spot in the pics? :-)) Weather was awesome, and we had perfect cramponing. DC was not there this time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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