Adam W Posted July 25, 2011 Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) Trip: Mount Shuksan - Sulfide Glacier - Day Hike Date: 7/23/2011 Trip Report: [video:youtube]aBMDIjzcz48 Matt Colleen and I climbed Shuksan on Saturday starting at 1:35 am. We traversed along the west side of the glacier to avoid the necessity of roping up. At 8:00 am we found that the upper half of the scramble on the pyramid was too icy to ascend without ice tools so we followed the southeast rib the rest of the way to the summit. Our round trip-time was just under 16 hours. If you want details go here. Edited July 26, 2011 by Adam W Quote
cookiejar Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 Awesome! Looking forward to the pix. I'm planning to climb it next weekend. Quote
cookiejar Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 Cool pictures! That was a lot of snow in the gully! I did this route 2 years ago the same weekend. The summit block was totally snow free. We did the South East ridge/rib last time and descended the regular gully. I remember it's mostly a class 4 / low class 5 route, we simul climbed all the way. How was the route you guys did? We will have a few novices in our party this weekend and wonder if we need to fix line and how big a rock rack I should bring. Any beta would be appreciated! Quote
Adam W Posted July 26, 2011 Author Posted July 26, 2011 It's really hard to judge what the snow will be like next weekend. I wouldn't be surprised if the upper gully is still filled with hard icy snow. You might have to end on the SE rib like we did. If you have novices with you, I would suggest bringing some cams and several very long slings. We rappelled of the old slings in place but I wouldn't really suggest it. Good Luck! Also, a 60 meter rope is probably ideal. Our 30 was a bit short. Quote
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