BootsandPants Posted July 15, 2011 Posted July 15, 2011 Trip: Prusik Peak - South Face Beckey-Davis Date: 7/10/2011 Trip Report: Core Enchantment permits had us heading back into the zone for a second time in a month, and climbing Prusik again. This time we'd try our hands at the South Face on the Beckey-Davis rather than the West Ridge. Arrived at the Leavenworth Ranger Station at 830 to pick up our permits. Mulled around town a bit waiting for Der Sportsman to open up, as someone who shall remain nameless (me) herp derped and forgot their helmet and had to purchase a new one. Were at the Snow Lake TH by 915 and were on the move by 945. We easily cruised up the trail and were passing Nada lake around 1200. [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284514_2070518474943_1004293218_32380239_6698194_n.jpg[/img] A short time later we crossed the dam at Snow Lake, the water definitely lower than the last time. Using the logs to try to cross was like some sort of crazy game; as you stepped on one it began to sink and you had to move quickly or else get very wet. Some were successful in making it across the log jam dry, others not so much. Guess all that video game playing as a kid came in handy [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lfsCjeSFwlM/Th70hqRFC8I/AAAAAAAAA9k/fccdyMpXLOs/s512/DSC00237.JPG[/img] After a brief time sunning and drying out a nice flat rock, we continued around Snow Lake and headed up to make camp above Lake Vivian on a little hill next to Temple Lake. What a difference a month makes! Just a month ago we were in snow before Nada lake, post holing and swearing with burning the anger of a thousand suns at how terrible the approach was. This was way easier and more pleasant! At camp by 1700 cooking some dinner and watching the goats play all around our campsite. [img:center]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284094_2070520074983_1004293218_32380244_642662_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/281209_2070520314989_1004293218_32380245_3211421_n.jpg[/img] Bed by 2000, awake on Sunday at 500, at the base of the route by 630 and climbing by 700. It took us a little longer to get going than we wanted to, but such is the way these things go. BK and Monica started up the wicked chimney on the first pitch of the Beckey route while Ambrose and I looked on. After about ten minutes of watching BK thrutch, grunt and curse his way up it, we decided that the start to the Stanly-Bergner route looked a little more aesthetic (and fun). "We could link up with them after the first pitch, right?" "Yeah, screw that thing, lets climb the crack" [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284464_2070520915004_1004293218_32380248_5085141_n.jpg[/img] After a much nicer first pitch, and a obliquely traversing second pitch, we met up with BK and Monica; back on route. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ANZhYCZkufY/Th704Azmr3I/AAAAAAAAA90/1H-AMFq3UNI/s512/DSC00240.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C0ZgscW5ESI/Th71CEK184I/AAAAAAAAA-U/XYtBLMlXJTI/s512/DSC00241.JPG[/img] A few route finding decisions and pitches later and we were at the crux, a weird bulge without very good hands. A nice little balancy problem, and the hardest thing I've led out in the alpine to date. I was pretty stoked to send it. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6RYQYmX3E4s/Th71Eltj5mI/AAAAAAAAA-A/qaRG6eqLl1E/s640/DSC00243.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281804_2070521675023_1004293218_32380249_5608009_n.jpg[/img] A pitch after the crux and we were standing in the notch on the east ridge. BK and Monica had scrambled to the summit before us, and Ambrose asked them to lower a rope so that we could climb the 5.10 finger crack up instead of scrambling. Tick another first off of my list... [img:center]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282589_2070522595046_1004293218_32380252_4847612_n.jpg[/img] Finally, all of us on the summit after 8 pitches, relaxing and taking in the views. Our stay was short lived as it was already 1500 and we had a long hike ahead of us still. [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/271049_2070544235587_1004293218_32380300_2448790_n.jpg[/img] Three double rope raps took us down to the snow. From there we hiked back to camp by 1730, broke down and were on the trail again. I always forget that hike is so damned long and always underestimate how long it will take to get out. Hiked the last three miles in total darkness and were at the TH by 2300. Feet hurting and super thirsty, we were dismayed to find that absolutely nothing was open in Leavenworth (not even the gas station) and all of the vending machines wouldn't even take our money Awesome weekend with some great climbers on a really fun route! I definitely learned a lot, and will never forget my helmet again (Photo credit to Ambrose, BK and myself) Gear Notes: Gear to 4", doubles of cams .5"-2", full rack of nuts Approach Notes: Consistent snow halfway around snow lake, but well consolidated. Lots of bare spots for bivy sites opening up on the plateau now. Quote
TobiasT Posted July 15, 2011 Posted July 15, 2011 Yeah nice photos of great rock. I didn't know that finger crack was there but it looks great. Quote
dian05 Posted July 15, 2011 Posted July 15, 2011 Great TR...thanks for taking the time to leave it! Quote
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