dawuda Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Trip: Mt Jefferson - West Rib Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: I took my friend Joel up Hood this last winter. After climbing it he swore it was cool, but he'd probably never wanna climb it again. About a week later he was raving about it and admitted he was addicted. Well, it took awhile for him to have the time, but last week he asked me to take him up again! Knowing Hood would be a circus on the 4th, I suggested other peaks and settle on Jeff's west rib. My other friend Josh joined us and we met up at the Pamelia TH around 2 on sat. After a leisure hike to the lake and to the PCT, the trail got steeper and my two friends showed me how poor of shape they were in. As Kirkw posted the week before, the approach trail is very clear if you follow the North gully. It was a beautiful night on the mountain and as it was getting dark we were surprised by the dull flashes of the distant fireworks over Detroit Lake! Most of them were out of view, but a few high flyers popped over the hills. We woke up fairly early and headed up. The snow was firm in places and after about 1000 ft of climbing we opted for the crampons. After meandering through the rock bands and up the steeper terrain, we finally reached the summit pinnacle where my two friends were becoming quite terrified. I offered to rope up and run out a pitch of two, pounding in pickets along the way until we got around the north side of the summit ridge onto the exposed rock. The summit block is snow free on the east side and went smoothly. We followed Kirkw's advice and downclimbed reclipping gear. Once back on the snow, we pitched out the same pitches that we had on the way up until we were back on the rib. The snow had become very soft and the plunge stepping back down the rib was easy except the hassle of balling snow or postholing to my waste occasionally. Great weather, conditions and trip! Both my friends were scared to the point of tears most the time cursing why they had an interest in climbing again, just to have them both excited and wanting more by the time we were at the trucks. Milk Creek Ever wonder what your friends are doing? First Rock belay top of the meandering rock pitch Too Scared to join me on the true summit! Gear Notes: 3 pickets, a few small nuts and two link cams. Approach Notes: Pamelia to Milk Creek, follow North Gully. Quote
zoroastr Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 hahahahahhaha gr8 TR ...scaring the crap out of your friends: just one of the many benefits of climbing. Quote
machine Posted February 18, 2012 Posted February 18, 2012 gentlemen, I would like to climb this beautiful bitch. How about this weekend? I'm just west of portland, and skinned up to 8,000 ft in June 2011 ascending from a snowy trail head at 4,000' to 8K via woodpecker ridge on the west side and deciding that was high enough. I would really like to climb this with someone who knows jeff, cause I would need help on the technical portion. I think thats awesome you made your friends crap their pants and I wish to experience the same sequence of fear induced involuntary intestinal movement, yet live to tell about it. I am in awesome physical condition, run, lift, ski, skin etc. so can handle and keep up just lacking in the technical portion and would love to be a sponge and learn! Quote
Tyson.g Posted February 18, 2012 Posted February 18, 2012 ...scaring the crap out of your friends: just one of the many benefits of climbing. Quote
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