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[TR] The Brothers - Standard 7/2/2011

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Trip: The Brothers - Standard


Date: 7/2/2011


Trip Report:

Climbed The Brothers standard route (south gully) on Saturday, July 2. Organized the trip with Zach (summithound) and Nick, Jared, all from NW hikers, plus Sandy came up to climber's camp.


Left the TH around 5:15pm on Friday and made camp at the Lena creek forks around 9pm, as it was getting dark. The tents were on snow. A few other tents were already there.


Left camp around 7am and made the summit by 10:30am. We missed the climber's trail up the Lena creek drainage (half under snow) and bushwacked with GPS help, then crossed a few avalanche debris snow fields, until we reached the magic gully that leads to the top. The entire route up above camp was firm snow (except for the rock at the very very top), the snow in the morning was well consolidated but soft enough to kick steps and toe kick up. Near the top there was a little confusion as some tracks led straight to the ridge (always stay right...got it), we traversed over and climbed over a few wind cornices to reach the exposed rock at the top, watch for falling rocks as people descend above you.


After lazing around the warm, sunny summit for almost an hour, down was so much fun...the snow had softened up, a little down climbing with toe pointing at the very top, otherwise big steps down in soft snow, and some super epic glissades of probably 1,500 vertical feet all told. The entire lower gully was glissaded, almost to the creek. Packed up base camp with a celebratory IPA (courtesy of Nick who packed 5 cans up, cheers), then burgers and beer at the very awesome Eagle Creek Saloon in nearby Lilliwaup around 6:30pm, home in Seattle by 10pm.


Times (+/-)

3.5 hours to climber's camp

3.5 hours to the summit

2.5 hours back to base camp

3 hours to the car (with some feet soaking in Lena Lake)


Link to the NW Hikers Trip Report (by Zach/Summithound) with photos:

NW Hikers Trip Report


Gear Notes:

Ice axe, helmet, gaiters were sufficient. (Brought crampons but didn't need them, nor any rope.) Cold beer a plus...


Approach Notes:

The trail past Lena Lake (Valley of the Silent Men) has a few icky spots...washouts, bogs, swamps, etc.




Climber's camp at the creek fork (3,000 ft.)



Ascending the lower gully snow slope around 4,500 ft.



Ian ascending the upper snow gully, above the hourglass.



Jared approaching a rounded snow cornice near 6,200 ft.



Looking back down toward the small cornices and upper gully.



Leaving snow for the 100' of exposed rock at the summit block



View of Mt. Washington and Eleanor to the south



Ian on top with the north summit and Mt. Constance in the distance



Down climbing through the small snow cornice


Edited by Ian in Seattle
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