N. Face Buckner Conditions?

[Poser]

Anybody been up in the last week?

[kurthicks]

from a friend:

 

I was up there yesterday and climbed Forbidden w. ridge. Its in great shape. We climbed to the ridge with little to no difficulties. Once at the ridge we climbed for another 200ft with crampons and then the rest of the ridge was bare and dry.

 

The snow was in great shape for travel 'til mid day. It began after the third creek crossing. Even in the hottest part of the day the snow was still reasonable for walking, except in old avi debris.

 

The North ridge still has a lot of snow on it and looks like it needs a couple of more weeks for some stuff to fall off of it.

The NE face still looks like a winter climb.

Sahale appears to have snow all the way to the summit with no exposed rock.

 

Sharkfin tower looks great. Good snow coverage to base and then bare rock.

 

Torment still has last years snow coming down the route, so torment forbidden needs some time.

 

N face buckner looks completely free from any difficulties.

 

Mixup needs some time.

 

[Poser]

Thanks for the quick response. Much appreciated.

[Alasdair]

Here are the photos from the trip kurt talks of.

 

http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/2011/07/west-ridge-of-forbidden-peak-climb-with.html

 

Kurt, You in town? Lunch w/ beer tomorrow?

[kurthicks]

yes and yes. i'll call you