[TR] Austera Peak/Primus Peak - 7/3/2011

[Le Piston]

Trip: Austera Peak/Primus Peak -

 

Date: 7/3/2011

 

Trip Report:

My friend Rod and I had wanted to climb Austera Peak on our trip to climb Dorado Needle, but bad weather changed that plan. So, with perfect weather we headed up towards Eldorado with hopes of climbing Austera and Primus. The trail was no less steep (my body is getting too old for this!), but the snow on the upper boulder field and slope leading up to the Eldorado glacier was a highway of steps.We wanted to camp at Klawatti Col to be closer to our goal. The Inspiration glacier crossing was the easiest I've ever had before.We set up camp and enjoyed the splendid views in either direction.Sunday morning we awoke to rain and whiteout conditions. I was afraid we were going to be stuck in "tent city" for the duration, but it stopped raining about noon. We ate and headed out in less than perfect visibility.Thanks to all the previous climbers...the tracks made routefinding a lot easier. We decided to do Primus first, as it is a walk-up...safely done in marginal conditions. We dropped down to the base of Austera Towers ridge (about 6800 feet) and started traversing up to Primus. The weather started to improve as we hit the summit.It isn't the prettiest mountain or technically challenging, but after getting skunked on Copper Peak last weekend due to illness, it felt good to summit something.Even though it was afternoon, we figured we had enough time to climb Austera and get back to camp before dark. We retraced our route and headed up to the base of Austera in perfect step kicking snow. We had been told the chockstone gully leading to the summit was solid ice, but I found only a few spots of ice in the chimney. I slung the chockstone (the only protection I set the whole trip) made a stemming move to get onto a small snow patch, then a few feet of rock to the summit.The views were pretty fine of Dorado Needle and the backside of Eldorado. We made it back to camp with light to spare, glad to have gotten to climb two peaks in such a beautiful area.The hike out, the snow was pretty hard, so crampons came out for the first time.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear. We brought pickets and a small rock rack for Austera (there is an exposed 4th class rock option for the summit)

 

Approach Notes:

Lower boulder field snow free. Upper boulder field melting out quickly...lots of holes to drop in (I hit a couple) Well packed footpath on the Inspiration glacier with very little crevasse action. A few cracks on the North Klawatti glacier.

[jordansahls]

Right on, looks like a great trip!

[BirdDog]

Nice guys. We spoke with at the base of Eldo before you set off for Klawatti.

[LukeShy]

Nice work guys getting up both Primus and Austera on a questionable weather day! I was in the tent next to you guys at Klawatti Col.

 

I lead up the right hand side variation of the chockstone gully on Austera, the ice gully didnt look like too much fun, good job making it go!

[Le Piston]

Thanks again for buttoning up our tent while we were gone. That was nice of you. The chockstone was actually fun getting up. You guys had quite the camp...we were envious!